Polco":2kit2bl8 said:
I think we really need pictures of your full set-up.
From what you have said "I've noticed even a slight tug on the cable at the downtube will shift the lever into the next sprocket, the derailleur is screwed in tight, I've tried it with two different levers with the same result."
In my opinion can be these things - one or a combination of all:
- the cable routing on the rear mech is wrong; I mean it is not set properly around / near the pinch bolt and it
results in being overly sensitive to any cable movement. It's an easy mistake to make.
- rear mech is worn and has sloppy pivots, but this I'm doubtful of as it would need to be really really worn. May
be an idea to make sure your jockey wheels are correct, the top one needs to be a "floating" type - on Shimano
it is marked Centurion - G.
- the rear cable is simply crap and stretches. Try a new inner (standard Shimano) and a compressionless
outer that connects to the rear mech.
- the lever is simply not tight enough or damaged, but since you tried indexed bar ends this does not sound that likely but
on the other hand in friction mode could explain the magnitude of the shift going down the whole block - a bit perplexing.
- frame flex may compound the issue and be the trigger. Yes it exists but there are 1000s of steel frames that
don't have this problem. A little pulley wheel will only help to reduce cable friction which I don't think is the
issue at hand. You can reduce friction by putting a teflon tube under the BB too - but I'm
not convinced this is the root of the problem unless there are obvious signs of frame damage and alignment issues.
While the bike is stationary, you can put your foot and weight on each pedal to see what is happening and just how
much things flex. Typically frame flex symptons are more likely seen with the chain rubbing on the front derailleur cage
when in the big ring.
Hope it helps.