Claud Butler - Carpenter - Vintage Bike - Wheel Help

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

The Super Velo is listed in the CB 1952 catalogue with chrome on the forks and rear triangle and detachable chain ring. The blue CB has a February 1953 532 frame number no chrome and one piece Brampton crank as shown for the Coronation model in the CB 1953 catalogue, has the mention of 531 just simply been omitted from the catalogue

Another early riser

 

[WhtANightmare]

One small query regarding the threaded axle on the rear hub and changing to a larger 5 speed freewheel (from the 3 wheel that was on their) is there anything that would need to be done to either
a) adjust the position of the cones?
b) add washer spaces after the cone on the freewheel side if the cone is shorter than the depth of the freewheel?
c) could length of axle be an issue?

If anything would need adjusting with the existing axle is there any good guide/information that would be worth watching/reading before looking at it.

Mark

 

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

One small query regarding the threaded axle on the rear hub and changing to a larger 5 speed freewheel (from the 3 wheel that was on their) is there anything that would need to be done to either
a) adjust the position of the cones?
b) add washer spaces after the cone on the freewheel side if the cone is shorter than the depth of the freewheel?
c) could length of axle be an issue?

If anything would need adjusting with the existing axle is there any good guide/information that would be worth watching/reading before looking at it.

Mark

Does the wheel fit in the drop outs? Is it central? If you screw the 5spd on does it cover the lock nut? If it does the spacing will need fiddling with and the wheel re dishing.

 

[WhtANightmare]

Does the wheel fit in the drop outs? Is it central? If you screw the 5spd on does it cover the lock nut? If it does the spacing will need fiddling with and the wheel re dishing

The wheel fits the dropouts, and appears to be central, but the cone position does seem to make the axle thread available at either end uneven (less thread to work with on freewheel side).

The 5 speed freewheel does cover the lock nut but not by much at all.

I was wondering if I could shift the centre of the axle to make the cone placement more even at both ends, then add a small spacer washer to both sides to retain the natural centre point and hopefully avoid re-dishing? If that makes sense

 

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

The wheel fits the dropouts, and appears to be central, but the cone position does seem to make the axle thread available at either end uneven (less thread to work with on freewheel side).

The 5 speed freewheel does cover the lock nut but not by much at all.

I was wondering if I could shift the centre of the axle to make the cone placement more even at both ends, then add a small spacer washer to both sides to retain the natural centre point and hopefully avoid re-dishing? If that makes sense

You can try it, can't hurt. Try not to add washers as this will spread the stays. You will need more spindle on the f/w side as you will have the mech thickness to account for as well.

 

[averagebiker]

What a lovely pair of bikes with a great family connection. Good luck with your ongoing restoration

 

[WhtANightmare]

What a lovely pair of bikes with a great family connection. Good luck with your ongoing restoration

Thanks @averagebiker certainly still got a long way to go with understanding how these things fully work but hopefully I'll get there eventually

 

[WhtANightmare]

You can try it, can't hurt. Try not to add washers as this will spread the stays. You will need more spindle on the f/w side as you will have the mech thickness to account for as well.

Well the "can't hurt" came back to haunt me a little lol. Managed to adjust the cones to provide more spindle on the f/w side, however, the bearings now make a bit of a rattling noise. I've tried adjusting the pressure from the cones at both ends with very minimal adjustments both tightening and loosening but can't seem to get it to play ball.

If I lay the wheel sideways with the axle clamped in a vice clamp the noise seems to go away, but as soon as I tilt the wheel vertically the noise returns (which I would assume is due to the wheel pressure when horizont but then if I tighten the cones a little bit it just makes the noise worse when vertical)

Wondering where I'm going wrong

 

[Guinessisgoodforyou]

Get the spindle/wheel where you want it. Tighten the f/w side cone and lock nut fully. Do all further adjustment on the l/h cone. This way you don't mess with the centering or spacing. Have you stripped, de greased and re greased the hub? Bearings rattling is usually an indication they are dry.

 

[WhtANightmare]

Get the spindle/wheel where you want it. Tighten the f/w side cone and lock nut fully. Do all further adjustment on the l/h cone. This way you don't mess with the centering or spacing. Have you stripped, de greased and re greased the hub? Bearings rattling is usually an indication they are dry.

I did, I completely stripped, cleaned everything with degreaser as best as I could, then used some Go Green Cycle grease (said specifically for bearings) in the housing to hold the bearings as I replaced the spindle etc etc.

I'd watched a video and everything and thought I'd done it pretty well. Just seems odd the noise basically goes away when the wheel is horizontal.