Twist grip thoughts/advice

[FluffyChicken]

Twist grips/gripshifts require require quite a squeeze in order to overcome cable forces & the tightness within the mechs/cables. This is often why some people do not get on with them. In wet/cold conditions changing gear can be almost impossible. Wether she can cope with this or if it is fine with her condition - only she can answer that one. I would guess a thumbshifter offers the most versatility & the option to use it with the palm of the hand or more strength.

Never had these problems, you've either only used lower end ones or the CX style or the SRT and not looked after them or ballsed up the installation etc.

Newer Waveys are ace and not a problem, they also can have spring assist and have the extra wide diameter imboard if you're in snow, mud lard, etc. And really need it.

You mostly don't twist with a hand thumb/finger grip, but your hand, the half pipes make it a palm twist.

But as always it try it and see, it'll be attached to Tourney gears. Would be great to see what is tried.

Sturmey did a big thumb thufter, often used on trikes and disability bikes, horrible thing my son hated it.. May only work with hub hears.

 

[minor_LEGEND]

/\ good point. Though when I worked in the cycle trade in the 90's, Gripshifts were often requested by such customers/cyclists as described. Some get on with it, others do not. Personally I find them flawed & would not recommend them. So I feel suitably experienced to reply here.

 

[FluffyChicken]

We're talking, or at least I am talking moderne post Sachs take over by SRAM so late 90s to 00s, I must try some Shimano out but RevoShift just don't look pretty.

Had a look and Shimano RV200 look quite smart now, loads of style.

For the half pipe a quick find brings this up https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifters/3-speed-sram-centera-front-twist-shifter/ never used it though.
A better easier to use front mech itself may be an idea, anyone got a light action front mech?

Maybe a Browning setup would be best?

 

[CC Rider]

Sorry, it's taken me a while to get back to this as my sister doesn't ride very much!!
Thank you all for your suggestions and advice. In the end we seem to have solved her problems by setting the gears up properly (disappointed the shop that sold and serviced it didn't do it properly ) and fitting some ergonomic grips. She still has occasional minor discomfort but not enough to bother her - if things deteriorate I'll be coming back to this thread!
Thank you

 

[Tsundere]

Interesting thread.

I'm not a fan of the grip type shifters that I've used, although they were cheap and cheerful or old and knackered, so maybe not fair to tar the better stuff with the same brush. However, based on those experiences alone I was of a mind never to use them again.

Unexpectedly they barged back into my life as it turns out the bike I'm restoring was originally fitted with a pair, namely Grip Shift SRT-800 X-RAYs. I know from research that these shifters were very prone to cracking. I have a set in very good non-cracked condition, so I'm wondering...

When they occur are the cracks fatal?
Is there any way to minimize the chances of cracking?

My plan is to fit them just for the initial resto, then replace them with something less fragile for riding, but if there's a hack that will make them more robust, and they work as well as people say they do, then I'd like to stick with them for this build.

 

[FluffyChicken]

No, they will crack if clear, the smokey dark ones have less chance. It is not fatal, it just around the bolt clamp area, not really structural normally.
Don't clamp too tight, don't use anything that will damage the plastic, use some nice vasaline style lube.

 

[Tsundere]

I just picked these up on fleabay, planning to switch them for the X-Rays once the resto is complete and pics have been taken etc, just because they seem to be much more robust and the bike will be a rider. The yellow will go nicely with the frame too.



These ones are sachs, hopefully they're compatible with M737 kit, anyone know what year these came out?

 

[FluffyChicken]

About 96/97
They will work and they are very nice.

 

[Retrorockit]

There are a lot of options for 1x and gripshifter. 8-11 speed can all be done. Shimano Revoshifters kind of ended at 8 speed. SRAM 8-11s are readily available.
SRAM 1:1 derailleurs and SRAM 1:1 gripshifter all work 8-11s.

There were some SRAM Rocket, and Attack gripshifters for Shimano 2:1 derailleurs in 7, 8-9 speed, including 1/2 pipes.

Shimano 10-11s derailleurs are basically the same as SRAM 1:1 cable ratio. So SRAM 1:1 gripshifters can be used with those also including 8-9s 1:1 versions. this allows modern wide range cassettes to be used. I went 1x11 SLX derailleur11-40t cassette on my vintage XC bike with a SRAM NX gripshifter. That cassette is actually on the small side for that derailleur, but I'm keeping my options open there for other derailleurs.

The problem with 3x7 is most 7 speeds were freewheel(ratchet inside the casette ,typically 13- 14t small cog), and not freehub (ratchet in the hub, typically 11-12t small cog). That may require a new rear wheel to get into the better options.

 

[Retrorockit]

Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator is always worth a visit when considering gear swaps.

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html
For gear units enter MPH or KPH @ 90RPM. This is kind of a standard cadence for discussing these things. But many casual riders will never spin that fast so it's a starting point to consider.
Figure out the highest, and lowest gears needed, or see what you have now for a starting point. If going to 1x you can still enter 3 chainrings at once to see the difference. Now 1x puts the large ring in the mid position, so it may need to be a little smaller due to that.
I might add that a company named DnP makes 11-34t 7, 8-9s freewheels. Theyr're very affordable and may be all you need to get into the 1x gripshift game.
https://www.amazon.com/stores/DRIFT...ef_=ast_bln&store_ref=bl_ast_dp_brandLogo_sto There may be other brands and vendors. I'm not associated with any vendors.
These exist because hubmotor Ebikes still use the threaded freewheel format and wanted modern speeds, gear ranges.