my logic with cable disc brakes and why they don't work well on drop bar levers, am i right?

There is something in the inconsistency of set up that i think leads people to do down cable discs. I wonder also if there isn't a prejudice against them from the outset that persuades people they are going to be rubbish. Once you get the idea in your head - especially among cyclists - there seems to be a chain of events: go on the internet, soak up a bit of confirmation bias, get onto the shop sites and hit the button for the inevitable "upgrade", experience the hassle of internally routed hydraulics, leaky pistons, contaminated/rubbing pads etc but persuade yourself that it's much better.
Loved my Hope RX4 calipers until one cracked and corroded - and Hope wouldn't warranty it. Gone back to spyres!
😀
 
I’ve had Shimano 517 (same as CX77), Avid BB7S and TRP Spyre, with two generations of Sora levers. Maybe I have become more skillful adjusting mechanicals over the time, but I’d say Spyres are the best, taken as a whole.

Use the Jagwire KEB Kit with those flexible housings for the bars. Cut housing precisely and straight maybe using a Dremel. Rotors have to be true, organic pads have a better bite. Inline barrel adjusters maybe useful to take any slack out of the cable, a torch to adjust pads. Take your time to bed in the pads.

Good modulation and enough stopping power for a gravel bike. Not sure about V’s but better than any other cable actuated brake I’ve tried.
 
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I bought a gravel bike with Spyres earlier this year. On the bike I tested in the shop, they were great and probably equal to well set-up BB7s on a mountain bike. On the bike I took home, they were dreadful at first: less stopping power than the calipers on my road bike. Same brakes, same housing, same model of bike... Same everything but just the bike from 'out the back' instead of the one on the shop floor. I reckon it took about 200 miles of riding, and a fair bit of tinkering, before I was getting close to the feel and power of the display bike's brakes. (I have read that the stock pads are not the best and that semi-sintered will be better. Whether that's true, I've yet to discover.)
 
reading through some of the above comments, i'll answer a few things, i'm not a snob about the parts/brands, if they were consistently good and felt positive to use i'd not have even started this thread or ever moaned about them, if something is good i'd be using it, the fact that i am moaning suggests i don't think they are good, because generally they are not, i don't think it's snobby to say this product is generally better than that product.

@wynne 9 times out of 10 when i see oil/contamination on rotors it's not because of leaking pistons, it's mostly uneducated people spraying lube on their chains and covering the discs. but this is sort of another grumble, not that oil on rim brakes wouldn't make a difference but it doesn't affect it as much (excess chain oil dripping on the rim is the usual way it gets there) and can be easily wiped off. obvs i try to educate the novice in to not doing this regardless of the brake design.

also i think what lever they are attached to also makes a difference, for example sram brakes tend to have a spongey feel generally (in my opinion) compared to shimano, do tektro brakes feel better fitted to shimano? the bike i have in the shop with sram levers connected to spyres suggests yes as i recently set up the same brake on a sora lever and that felt much nicer but still not great to be honest.

i also accept that sometimes it's just a preference to have cable discs, but my logic suggests otherwise, i think it's related to the purchase price of the bike, and if that customers budget is that price then they will buy it reagardless of the brake design/spec. but for example, back in the day say a manufacturer had 9 bikes in a range, there would be 3 different frames, the basic 3 getting 3 different specs, then the midrange frame got 3 different specs, then the nice frame got 3 different specs, this gave you 9 price points with justifiable price jumps, on road bikes for example now you have a different way of doing it, they produce 1 frame for the basic road model, maybe 2 spec choices, both rim brake, the next frame will be a disc frame, but here's the rub, you have say a Tiagra equipped bike with rim brakes, then 2 models above you have a 105 hydraulic disc equipped bike and the price difference can be massive, as a result the manufacturer needs to fill a price point, the don't do a 105 rim brake bike to fill the mid point (which i think they should) no they do a tiagra equipped disc cable bike because that way they can build more of the disc frames and only one model of rim frame. basically reducing their costs. my point is that they only make the cable disc equipped model to fill a price point in between 2 models that do sell.

personally on a road bike i'd have rim brakes over any cable brake, so i think the manufacturers should go sora rim, tiagra rim, 105 rim, but also have tiagra disc and 105 disc, ultegra disc, dura ace disc, this would give the same price points as using cable discs with out the fear of problem brakes. gravel wise if budget is an issue and you want hydraulic brakes i'd go for something like an Orange Speedwork which is basically a flat bar gravel bike but it saves 400 over their equivalent drop bar gravel bike. i'd rather see mini v brakes on entry level gravel bikes than basic cable discs.

the other thing i'd point out is pretty much everyone on this forum has been riding for years, a wealth of experience etc, the average buyer of an £800 gravel bike is still a novice, having to deal with that person generally when they've come in to the shop with brakes that don't work very well and even when fully sorted out the brakes are not that great is far from ideal, obvs i want the customer to have good working brakes, if i could get that consistently from cable brakes it would make my life so much easier as when they ask about a hydraulic upgrade and you say "well the tiagra set up is nearly £500 and you'll need to upgrade you chain, cassette and rear mech at the minimum as well", why? because hydraulic starts at 10speed and they have 8 maybe 9 speed. it sucks, it really does.
 
I bought a gravel bike with Spyres earlier this year. On the bike I tested in the shop, they were great and probably equal to well set-up BB7s on a mountain bike. On the bike I took home, they were dreadful at first: less stopping power than the calipers on my road bike. Same brakes, same housing, same model of bike... Same everything but just the bike from 'out the back' instead of the one on the shop floor. I reckon it took about 200 miles of riding, and a fair bit of tinkering, before I was getting close to the feel and power of the display bike's brakes. (I have read that the stock pads are not the best and that semi-sintered will be better. Whether that's true, I've yet to discover.)

It’s true that mine took some time to bed in and a decent amount of time to adjust them correctly.
 
reading through some of the above comments, i'll answer a few things, i'm not a snob about the parts/brands, if they were consistently good and felt positive to use i'd not have even started this thread or ever moaned about them, if something is good i'd be using it, the fact that i am moaning suggests i don't think they are good, because generally they are not, i don't think it's snobby to say this product is generally better than that product.

@wynne 9 times out of 10 when i see oil/contamination on rotors it's not because of leaking pistons, it's mostly uneducated people spraying lube on their chains and covering the discs. but this is sort of another grumble, not that oil on rim brakes wouldn't make a difference but it doesn't affect it as much (excess chain oil dripping on the rim is the usual way it gets there) and can be easily wiped off. obvs i try to educate the novice in to not doing this regardless of the brake design.

also i think what lever they are attached to also makes a difference, for example sram brakes tend to have a spongey feel generally (in my opinion) compared to shimano, do tektro brakes feel better fitted to shimano? the bike i have in the shop with sram levers connected to spyres suggests yes as i recently set up the same brake on a sora lever and that felt much nicer but still not great to be honest.

i also accept that sometimes it's just a preference to have cable discs, but my logic suggests otherwise, i think it's related to the purchase price of the bike, and if that customers budget is that price then they will buy it reagardless of the brake design/spec. but for example, back in the day say a manufacturer had 9 bikes in a range, there would be 3 different frames, the basic 3 getting 3 different specs, then the midrange frame got 3 different specs, then the nice frame got 3 different specs, this gave you 9 price points with justifiable price jumps, on road bikes for example now you have a different way of doing it, they produce 1 frame for the basic road model, maybe 2 spec choices, both rim brake, the next frame will be a disc frame, but here's the rub, you have say a Tiagra equipped bike with rim brakes, then 2 models above you have a 105 hydraulic disc equipped bike and the price difference can be massive, as a result the manufacturer needs to fill a price point, the don't do a 105 rim brake bike to fill the mid point (which i think they should) no they do a tiagra equipped disc cable bike because that way they can build more of the disc frames and only one model of rim frame. basically reducing their costs. my point is that they only make the cable disc equipped model to fill a price point in between 2 models that do sell.

personally on a road bike i'd have rim brakes over any cable brake, so i think the manufacturers should go sora rim, tiagra rim, 105 rim, but also have tiagra disc and 105 disc, ultegra disc, dura ace disc, this would give the same price points as using cable discs with out the fear of problem brakes. gravel wise if budget is an issue and you want hydraulic brakes i'd go for something like an Orange Speedwork which is basically a flat bar gravel bike but it saves 400 over their equivalent drop bar gravel bike. i'd rather see mini v brakes on entry level gravel bikes than basic cable discs.

the other thing i'd point out is pretty much everyone on this forum has been riding for years, a wealth of experience etc, the average buyer of an £800 gravel bike is still a novice, having to deal with that person generally when they've come in to the shop with brakes that don't work very well and even when fully sorted out the brakes are not that great is far from ideal, obvs i want the customer to have good working brakes, if i could get that consistently from cable brakes it would make my life so much easier as when they ask about a hydraulic upgrade and you say "well the tiagra set up is nearly £500 and you'll need to upgrade you chain, cassette and rear mech at the minimum as well", why? because hydraulic starts at 10speed and they have 8 maybe 9 speed. it sucks, it really does.

How many miles have you ridden on a set before deciding they aren’t upto scratch?

I do think price comes into it. Someone who spends their full budget on a £800 bike likely thinks it should do everything faultlessly when in fact corners will be cut.


However you could also argue that someone who rides £10k plus bikes usually will have higher standards too.



Ridden many rim brake bikes , and likely the best I’ve used were sram Red 22 aero link ones. These were decent in the dry but woeful in the wet compared to the cable discs on my Planet X

I still think it’s down proper set up and getting the ridden.
 
obvs a lot of the ones i set up are new or new pads, that's a fair point, but i have ridden the customers bikes when also bedded in, just not impressed at all, i have only ever felt confident on avid brakes, which i don't see very often really and not all were good, i also had cable disc brakes, tektro spyke on my fat bike originally, gave up with them after a couple of months and i should add that i was riding that bike a lot at the time, maybe 100 miles a week
 
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Maybe it’s the fact that I don’t wash it , and only ride it in crap weather that has created a good brake pad / disc surface with no contamination.

It’s also likely that I spent more time in total setting them up than a LBS would spend. I can’t remember exactly but I know I spent many hours over multiple rides getting them sorted when the bike was new. Something a shop isn’t going to do. Small tweaks here and there etc.

I’m actually surprised they haven’t needed adjusting or anything yet which is likely the point they will turn to crap.
 
the other thing i'd point out is pretty much everyone on this forum has been riding for years, a wealth of experience etc, the average buyer of an £800 gravel bike is still a novice, having to deal with that person generally when they've come in to the shop with brakes that don't work very well and even when fully sorted out the brakes are not that great is far from ideal, obvs i want the customer to have good working brakes, if i could get that consistently from cable brakes it would make my life so much easier as when they ask about a hydraulic upgrade and you say "well the tiagra set up is nearly £500 and you'll need to upgrade you chain, cassette and rear mech at the minimum as well", why? because hydraulic starts at 10speed and they have 8 maybe 9 speed. it sucks, it really does.
This is a very fair point. I can see how Spyres could be frustrating for bike mechanics and catch out newer riders. I knew what I was buying and I knew I had the budget to upgrade if need be; however, I do like the ease with which I can tweak the feel of Spyres. As for hydraulics: I know their advantages but for DIY maintenance, it's basically a plumbing job, and I hate plumbing jobs in all their forms and varieties.
 
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