Cantilever Brake Masterclass
- Thread starter Iwasgoodonce
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klunkrider
Retro Guru
Agree with @doctor-bond and others, ditch the fixed length straddle wire and get a good hanger (@bold stelvis says it himself, they only work if they are exactly the right length, a hanger and separate straddle cable can always be made to work).
The bent plate hangers are alright but if you’re buying them as opposed to getting them with brakes then the Tektro/Jagwire ones are considerably better in every aspect.
In my experience you want the straddle to sit as low as possible without it interfering with the tyre (leave some room for mud too).
@Tootyred image of the brakes I think shows a much better angle of the arms where the pad holder sits directly above the pivot and fixing bolt, I’d get the pads out and try and set yours up like that and then get the pads back in and set them up to suit that position of the arms rather than trying to set the position off the arms to suit how you have the pads.
Others have commented on the state of the rear cable and I see the front is noted as being original, get that to buggery and get some decent cables on there. New inners and compressionless outers will make any brakes feel much better, cantis especially so.
The bent plate hangers are alright but if you’re buying them as opposed to getting them with brakes then the Tektro/Jagwire ones are considerably better in every aspect.
In my experience you want the straddle to sit as low as possible without it interfering with the tyre (leave some room for mud too).
@Tootyred image of the brakes I think shows a much better angle of the arms where the pad holder sits directly above the pivot and fixing bolt, I’d get the pads out and try and set yours up like that and then get the pads back in and set them up to suit that position of the arms rather than trying to set the position off the arms to suit how you have the pads.
Others have commented on the state of the rear cable and I see the front is noted as being original, get that to buggery and get some decent cables on there. New inners and compressionless outers will make any brakes feel much better, cantis especially so.
Iwasgoodonce
Old School Grand Master
This thread will hopefully be found in the future. Edumu-cation is the key. Let’s start with the basics. I’m not over an item selling that I really wanted but, moving on is the key. The little Allen key grub screw was stupidly tight. I took the brake off the boss again and, yes. Bad Things had happened to it. Here we go:
You see how there are two possible holes for the end of the spring to engage with? Do the do different things? Is one for the back and one for the front brake? Or, are they something to do with the SLR lever? This is the front brake by the way.
For the record I now have two of the Decathlon (Tektro style) brake hangers.
I have a set of HS33s in the loft…
You see how there are two possible holes for the end of the spring to engage with? Do the do different things? Is one for the back and one for the front brake? Or, are they something to do with the SLR lever? This is the front brake by the way.
For the record I now have two of the Decathlon (Tektro style) brake hangers.
I have a set of HS33s in the loft…
klunkrider
Retro Guru
Not watched the video but I’m presuming it’s talking about the angles between the pivot, cable anchor, straddle cable and pass holder?
I set up cantis using that method (different source) once and it maybe helped but I don’t think I’d be too hung up on angles.
klunkrider
Retro Guru
I think they are tension adjustments like the three holes in the frame/fork. They won’t be anything to do with lever pull ratio if that’s what you mean about the slr lever?
I’d probably set them in the hole that’ll offer less tension and see how they work and go from there. The three holes in the frame/fork and using a tension adjustment screw/Allen key would seem like a finder adjustment than the rather large jump between those holes.
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SLR, if your levers are SLR (have a return spring of some sorts) then they go in this, the plastic cover will show this in use.
If not you use the other.
You then setup with the middle hole on the frame to start with.
The non SLR setting tensions the spring more, so in effect gives more hand fatigue or a better hand workout but does the pulling the lever back, rather than the newer style springs in the lever.
It's also useful if your springs are going soft or your cable and routing, or bushings are bad and has lots of friction in it.
The frame holes are there for as similar reason, increase and decrease spring tension as needed, tweak with the grub screw for centering.
Pull that brake apart and get the bits out and clean and lube the bushing parts up, and also the grub screw. Life's easier then.
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Now I'm for Shimano pro thing and not traditional straddle hanger if I can avoid it, (or you need the look, say with 987 or wide brakes) I moved on and enjoy them and my brakes are ace Each to their own there, not so much the M-brake ones as they look naff.
Last edited:
MattiThundrrr
Kona Fan
This is important. I've used the fork as a guideline; set the resting straddle height in line with the bottom of the fork crown.
Maximum mud clearance, because the fork won't allow any more, and keeps the straddle cable nice and low.
Iwasgoodonce
Old School Grand Master
Thanks everyone. I’m having one more go at it and then this thread will turn into a, “Magura HS33 Masterclass” post! In fact, has anyone successfully routed the hose through the top tube on a bike so equipped?
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