Mini v-brakes

[Woz]

+1 for everything @Gazelleer has said.

Mini-Vs were kind of born out of BMX, then into CX. Tektro did several versions slightly tweaking arm length.

Tektro Oryx may be a better solution, but of course consideration will be needed for front and rear cable hangers.

​

 

[dirttorpedo]

+1 for everything @Gazelleer has said.

Mini-Vs were kind of born out of BMX, then into CX. Tektro did several versions slightly tweaking arm length.

Tektro Oryx may be a better solution, but of course consideration will be needed for front and rear cable hangers.

​

I've definitely read different takes on the mini-v brake and most people who use them don't run fenders. From my research they seem to come in arm lengths that range from 80mm to 90mm while standard v-brakes are around 105.

I don't know that I want to spend $ on modern cantis at this point - I don't think they'll function much different than my Shimano DX's outside of being easier to align the pads and allowing me to buy bolt on pads. I ran Tektro 720's on my triple X frame and never could dial the power in. I finally switched to old canti's and was much happier from a power and modulation perspective.

 

[Woz]

Think you would only be able to run mini-Vs and mudguards with skinny tyres and a very close fitting profile mudguard at that.

I will say, this whole saga of cross compatibility has been a ball ache and a mess. I've tried lots over the years, and there are many variables like canti-stud height, how far they are apart, what width rim you want to use and what tyre. I've used the Tektro linear pull drop-bar levers with normal and mini-Vs and never got along with them - the lever action just felt weird due to where the pivot point is.

The Campagnolo mini-V I believe is just a rebranded Tektro, so nothing special. I have seen some odd modifications to V-brakes using straddle wires or linkages for better clearance . Also seen some odd modifications to STI levers moving the cable further up, drilling a hole in the lever and using that to bed the pear nipple in from the outside

One thing worth mentioning, Shimano have fiddled with the cable pull ratio on their drop-bar levers. There is SLR, Super SLR and New Super SLR - genius marketing but approaching much more something that could potentially work good enough with a normal V-brake; I've not yet done some comparisons with flat bar levers, measurements and to try this myself.

https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=141578

 

[MartinB123]

This thread has definitely made me think about moving away from Canti's on my CX/do it all bike. I get the logic behind how they work but i've never really had a combination of calipers and pads that has lit my world up in terms of stopping power. I took a pool bike out yesterday at work with a basic V brake up front and a pedal back brake and couldn't fault the stopping power of the front!

 

[dirttorpedo]

Think you would only be able to run mini-Vs and mudguards with skinny tyres and a very close fitting profile mudguard at that.

I will say, this whole saga of cross compatibility has been a ball ache and a mess. I've tried lots over the years, and there are many variables like canti-stud height, how far they are apart, what width rim you want to use and what tyre. I've used the Tektro linear pull drop-bar levers with normal and mini-Vs and never got along with them - the lever action just felt weird due to where the pivot point is.

The Campagnolo mini-V I believe is just a rebranded Tektro, so nothing special. I have seen some odd modifications to V-brakes using straddle wires or linkages for better clearance . Also seen some odd modifications to STI levers moving the cable further up, drilling a hole in the lever and using that to bed the pear nipple in from the outside

One thing worth mentioning, Shimano have fiddled with the cable pull ratio on their drop-bar levers. There is SLR, Super SLR and New Super SLR - genius marketing but approaching much more something that could potentially work good enough with a normal V-brake; I've not yet done some comparisons with flat bar levers, measurements and to try this myself.

https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=141578

Tektro make a pair of drop bar levers that are v-brake compatible, but that would mean that I had to stick with my bar end shifters which I'd rather not do because I really love the efficiency of the Gevenalle style friction on the lever shifting.

Tektro RL520 V-brake compatible drop levers

Ideal lever upgrade for touring commuter bikes or MTB cross conversions

road.cc

 

[wafter]

Err... not sure if it helps but my Fuji Touring runs Tektro mini-Vs and TRP RRL levers (just brakes not STIs as gears are on bar-end shifters).

This (factory original) combo works OK but I think there's a bit of an issue with pull ratio as they require a lot of adjustment as they wear.

As for clearance, I'm running them with the larger (45mm?) SKS Longboard mudguards without issue. Can bang a few pics up if it's of any help

 

[MartinB123]

Err... not sure if it helps but my Fuji Touring runs Tektro mini-Vs and TRP RRL levers (just brakes not STIs as gears are on bar-end shifters).

This (factory original) combo works OK but I think there's a bit of an issue with pull ratio as they require a lot of adjustment as they wear.

As for clearance, I'm running them with the larger (45mm?) SKS Longboard mudguards without issue. Can bang a few pics up if it's of any help

Go for it!

 

[dirttorpedo]

Err... not sure if it helps but my Fuji Touring runs Tektro mini-Vs and TRP RRL levers (just brakes not STIs as gears are on bar-end shifters).

This (factory original) combo works OK but I think there's a bit of an issue with pull ratio as they require a lot of adjustment as they wear.

As for clearance, I'm running them with the larger (45mm?) SKS Longboard mudguards without issue. Can bang a few pics up if it's of any help

Would be interested in seeing pictures

 

[wafter]

Cool - best I can pull from the archives:






That's with 32mm tyres on 19mm wide rims. Clearance at the sides seems fine; if there's going to a problem it would be above the guard, there's plenty of clearance in use but I've put some protection tape on top of the guards as the cable retainer sometimes contacts them when releasing the cable.