Anyone need machining doing?

[Broady]

It's probably been asked already, but I'd love my frame polishing to a mirror finish with the small imperfections removed for good measure. Is this something you offer?

A few people have asked, it's something I probably could do, but it's something that would probably take me a full weekend so would end up being quite expensive. I'm not sure how much other finishing companies charge for a full polish so I don't know if my initial quote would be cheap or an insult!

 

[mikee]

you can get away with them being round as opposed to an elipse
they look fine like that
you can do them with 2 jigs . a bit of 28.6 bar long enough to get a grip
drill 6.5 ,c/bore for the screw
fit in an indexing head /collet chuck at 16 degrees (iirc) and machine
the in stem end , elipse it on a cnc or just round on a manual ,i'll leave the
dimensions to you
fixture 2 copies the stem ,use the pre-drilled screw hole to fix it
skim /chamfer/engrave

 

[RockiMtn]

would you be able to supply a 1" Pace/Bontrager style Ti steerer??? And 1" Ti headset spacer?

i'll be hitting you up for some of those granny spacers once i can figure out the proper stupid size i need for a set of Sycnros Revolutions. :roll:

 

[classen]

would you be able to supply a 1" Pace/Bontrager style Ti steerer?

I've been looking into the feasibility of this, but I'm having a hard time finding titanium tube stock of sufficient wall thickness. The best I've found so far is:

1" OD, 0.065" wall thickness.

This is only 1.65mm thick. I'm not sure this would be safe? An aluminum tube with an OD = ID of the Titanium tube could be pressed/slid into the end of the steerer that is clamped to provide some support against the clamping force of the fork crown, but I'm not sue that 1.65mm provides enough material to cut threads on the other end?

 

[Broady]

Ti seems to be fairly hard to source here in the UK, or at the very least my 2 usual suppliers only have a minimal range, from what I remember there's nothing that would work as a steerer without a bit of machining and I'm never a fan of wasting Ti.

On an unrelated note, I just made a start on cleaning up and polishing a set of Bontrager GXP Track cranks.

Here's what they look like stock, black, laser etched logos and a ridge round the edge:

The plan is to make them look like SRAM Omniums:

Heres the LH arm so far:

 

[classen]

Mmmmmm shiny cranks.


Broady, do you know what the cut depth is for a 1" 24TPI die? Just curious how much material would be left on 1.65mm thick Ti tubing after cutting threads.

 

[boxxer]

If you could do a manitou 1 type crown in solid billet I'm sure there would be a bit of interest on here..

It's the early solid 4 bolt one rather than the later one with the milling round the outside of the clamps...

 

[RockiMtn]

would you be able to supply a 1" Pace/Bontrager style Ti steerer?

I've been looking into the feasibility of this, but I'm having a hard time finding titanium tube stock of sufficient wall thickness. The best I've found so far is:

1" OD, 0.065" wall thickness.

This is only 1.65mm thick. I'm not sure this would be safe? An aluminum tube with an OD = ID of the Titanium tube could be pressed/slid into the end of the steerer that is clamped to provide some support against the clamping force of the fork crown, but I'm not sue that 1.65mm provides enough material to cut threads on the other end?

I'm looking at a threadless application on the Merlin that i'm currently using the bonty fork on. saves the headache and the risk, as well as making use of the nice RF Ti stem.

 

[classen]

I'm looking at a threadless application on the Merlin that i'm currently using the bonty fork on. saves the headache and the risk, as well as making use of the nice RF Ti stem.

Hmmmm well then maybe the available Ti tube stock would work for you. The only thing to be done is machine a grove at the bottom for a retaining ring.

Because of the clamping force of the threadless stem I would suggest an aluminum insert in the top of the tube too. This would have an OD sufficient to press into inside of Ti steerer. Also make sure the Aluminum insert has the proper ID for a star nut.

very intriguing.

 

[RockiMtn]

I'm looking at a threadless application on the Merlin that i'm currently using the bonty fork on. saves the headache and the risk, as well as making use of the nice RF Ti stem.

Hmmmm well then maybe the available Ti tube stock would work for you. The only thing to be done is machine a grove at the bottom for a retaining ring.

Because of the clamping force of the threadless stem I would suggest an aluminum insert in the top of the tube too. This would have an OD sufficient to press into inside of Ti steerer. Also make sure the Aluminum insert has the proper ID for a star nut.

very intriguing.

The RF Ti stem is an inner expander design, similar to a quill stem, so there's no clamping concerns.

only issue is proper inner and outer diameter for it to fit/work properly.