And today I did......

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Muchos embarrassment, forgot I had another frame suitable for the Pikes. Rebuilding my shed and looked in a big box at the back. There was the DDG The Bouncer urt frame I bought a wee while back.
 

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That actually looks decent.

Changed the Solaris back to 27.5+ today. 29 is good but much more playful in 27.5 guise. Wee run to the local farm for eggs and bread today as well.

How’s everyone else’s lockdown routine going?
 
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Started buying and assembling above bikes components. Rear brakes will be Hydraulic Promax rim brakes (budget Magura copies) they look pretty good in the flesh. Gear shifters in form of SRAM 9 spd twist shifter brand new 1:1 actuation with 9 speed SRAM X5 rear mech in 1:1 actuation of course also brand spanking. Not decide if I'll work toward 1 x or stick with 3 x, budget will probably decide.
 
Personally I reckon you should go for a proper disc on front and an anything on the rear, its front only really does the stopping and I could furnish you with a very nice conditioned mini, from the personal collection.
Its actually a rear right side lever, but thats personal really and change is good :D Besides thats what the Europeans do, so not too bizarre.

12 quid for a set of hydraulic rim crushers is just too cheap. Not the part of the bike to ever skimp on quality.
 
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Not sure where you get £12 hydraulic rim brakes as mine cost £43. Front brake is basic Shimano hydraulic disc brake although a hope mini and some giant mph lurk In my parts bins.
 
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velomaniac":2icck1pf said:
some giant mph lurk In my parts bins.

Best place for them apart from in an actual bin.
Hateful things. Mate had nothing but problems with them when they were new, never mind with 20 year old seals.
 
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Ummmm doesn't say much for Hope Mini's then either since MPH's are copies of both descend from the same Hope brake. Might explain why so many Hope Mini's are often for sale on fleabag, nobody wants them. I have a seized set of Mini's I keep if only to claim I have Hope brakes
 
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Nah, the Giants were copies of the original C2 except with the master cylinder mounted horizontally. When I used to race DH you had to start the race with the adjuster as far out as possible because by the bottom they were that pumped the pads would rub otherwise.

Mini was a much better open cylinder design. Actually preferred them to the monos that replaced them. Last set of Mono minis put me off Hope brakes for good.
 
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clubby":c6ccx8c0 said:
velomaniac":c6ccx8c0 said:
some giant mph lurk In my parts bins.

Best place for them apart from in an actual bin.
Hateful things. Mate had nothing but problems with them when they were new, never mind with 20 year old seals.

I had the Giant MPH's on a Zaskar a few years back, I actually found them perfectly OK, and they were a damn sight cheaper than Hope too.

All I'll say is that if you want to try cooling off your MPH disc rotors after descending
Mount Keen then DO NOT use orange flavoured energy drink! The howling from the brakes afterwards could be heard 3 Glen's over! :lol:
 
Giant :? MPH :?

:?


step 1 .. loosen the lever and tilt the lever upwards so the bleed screw (on the top of the lever is level)

step 2 .. undo the torx screw on the top of the lever (bleed screw)

step 3.. on the caliper there is a bleed nipple with a rubber cap , remove rubber cap

step 4.. fill a syringe (20ml) with MINERAL OIL and connect a small length of tube/hose on the end of the syringe

step 5.. place a 7mm ring spanner on the bleed nipple and secure the tube/hose with the syringe attached to the nipple.

step 6 .. place some tissue of kitchen towel or something to absorb fluid around the caliper in case any fluid is split.

step 7.. push the syringe so the fluid enters the system and starts coming out of the lever bleed screw (place a bucket or something on handle bars to catch the fluid) you should see some bubbles of air escaping , when you stop seeing air escaping and the fluid is continuous tighten the bleed nipple with the 7mm spanner and stop applying pressure to the syringe and quickly put the torx screw back in to the lever and do up reasonably tight.

step 8.. wipe off any excess brake fluid and spray with water.

step 9.. reposition the lever again so this time the top of the reservoir is level with the ground and pump the lever until the lever starts going harder and harder and then it should feel very sharp.

step 10 .. reposition the lever again so you can remove the torx screw on the lever and top up the lever with fluid (with the syringe)

repeat steps 9 and 10 , 2 or three times to make sure there is absolutely no air left in the system ..

My :D That sounds fun :D

With Hope its UK made. All parts available.

@Jim. Ive a nos pair of minis here :wink: a 3 and a 5 though I can do 2 5's or either and a post mount. The one I was offering to V I think is a nos caliper on a nice conditioned lever.

If you are in the market Jim, Ive a mint set of mini m4 No3 and /mini No3. Lovely condition. All pistons work with so much as the tiniest lever movement. Spot on.

Odd you dont rate the monos. I'm using them on the cove right now and performance wise is excellent. Were you using them from new ?.
 
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