2000 Marin Mount Vision Build

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I have at least 2 Rockshox SID shocks that are dead. Bought seals for main air chamber, put together OK but the -ve side had lost pressure, wouldn't then hold pressure. Getting seals for them was problematic so gave up and put Fox shocks on bikes. Seals are readily available and rebuilding Fox shocks is pretty straightforward. Rebuilding the -ve chamber means dismantling the shock to change seals, I think, not so easy. Lots of info online, videos etc.

A small amount of oil/fluid coming out air valve is OK because the seal kits I've used for the Fox shocks includes a small sachet of Fox fluid that you put in air chamber during rebuild to lube the seals. The SID has a valve to adjust pressure in -ve chamber but the Fox shocks don't, at least the ones I have don't.

Just checked on my Marin Wolf Ridge, it has a Rockshox Monarch shock, not a Fox like my wife's Wild Cat Trail and youngest daughter's Mount Vision, oldest daughter's Wolf Ridge had a new Fusion O2 fitted when I built it up. I just remembered getting a seal kit to fit the Monarch off ebay from a guy in Israel. He didn't have the exact kit to fit my Monarch so he made up a specific kit for me for same price. This guy, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Float-X- ... SwKrxUak6q but because he makes up the kits you don't get the small sachet of fluid needed to lube seals.
 
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Thanks for the info, that's helpful.

I took the shock apart today and put a load of grease in on the seals. Put it back together and pumped it up, and the leak now seems either much slower or (fingers crossed) absent. My valve core tool isn't quite long enough to remove the Schrader valve cores, which is another potential leak point, so might buy or borrow another to check this.

I put the shock in a bucket of water when under pressure and no bubbles emerged... I'm not really sure of a better way to check for leaks! When the shock pump is connected there is definitely a slow leak, but it's possible this is occurring where the pump hose joins the shock and so won't be an issue when the pump isn't connected. Any pro tips?

I also stripped down the rear hub and regreased the bearings, and put a bit more tension on the spokes while truing up the rim. Spins nicely now.

Running out of other jobs I can get on with until the sleeve nuts arrive from China to make some shock mounting hardware!
 
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Bought a nice black and silver saddle on fleabay for the build, which arrived over the weekend.



Am also waiting on a 30.0mm seatpost clamp (boring but rather essential) and some lovely long silver bar ends (both essential and rather exciting!).

I'm already looking at the 630mm wide bars and thinking they're going to have to be cut down a bit. I'm thinking they'll end up somewhere in the 580mm - 600mm bracket, but will need to build it up and check I can get the brakes/shifters where I want them before cutting them too narrow.
 

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That saddle looks a bit pooped!

You are doing way better than me though, I have got as far as this with the DH-FRS

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and the badly painted Mount Vision is languishing in the shed.

I have 3 sets of brakes either missing fluid or pads or fork mounts

1 set of frankly shagged disc wheels and SRAM 1x10 shifting itching to get on to something!
 
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Yeah, the saddle has clearly seen some action in the past... still, it's main (and rather unglamorous) function is to support my undercarriage and it's amply smart enough for that :)

Couldn't wait for the shock mounting bits and pieces to arrive any longer, so I started building up what I could without the shock in place. Pretty pleased with how it's looking, and glad I went with the black/silver colour scheme.



Now it's roughly put together, it looks like the swing arm is slightly on the squiff with respect to the main frame. Hopefully this may straighten up when I tighten up the shock mount bolts... no massive biggie if not though, doesn't look like it's out enough to cause any functional issues. I'll definitely want to give the swing arm a good checking over before riding though, in case the squiffiness is the result of a previous owners "mis-hap" on the trails.
 

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One thing I'm really not clear on is how the rear disc caliper is supposed to mount onto the swing arm.



I'm not sure how well the above pics show the situation, but when the caliper is clamped over the rotor, the IS mount attached to the caliper wants to be in the same plane as the (silver alloy) IS adaptor that's currently bolted to the swing arm.

I've seen quite a few Mount Visions of a similar age with disc brakes on the swing arm, so it's clearly do-able... feel like I'm having a stupid moment but any help with this one would be much appreciated!
 

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Hmm, it's not a case of having to use a period correct caliper due to IS mount standards evolving in the late 90s is it? That would be a bit of a nuisance!
 
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Would it not work with the adapter on the outside with necessary spacer between the brake and adapter to achieve the correct plane. AMP and IS adapters have been made they same way. Just a thought.
 
Yes, it would work if I put the silver alloy adapter on the outside of the frame, and then used a ~5mm spacer between that and the IS to post mount converter.

But I'm not totally sure if using 5mm spacers is a sensible idea given the amount of force that gets put through a disc caliper...

Benandemu from this forum clearly managed to get a similar set-up to work, and looks like they had the same style swing arm as I do here.
 

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hawkhill97":fjce4yek said:
Yes, it would work if I put the silver alloy adapter on the outside of the frame, and then used a ~5mm spacer between that and the IS to post mount converter.

But I'm not totally sure if using 5mm spacers is a sensible idea given the amount of force that gets put through a disc caliper...

Benandemu from this forum clearly managed to get a similar set-up to work, and looks like they had the same style swing arm as I do here.

I agree with the 5mm spacer but others seem to live with it.
The image you show is a post mount adapter to IS. I got that to work with my AMP And Avids, but then could not get a IS Hope Minis to work. Had to make a new adapter.
 
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