Prodigal Son
Senior Retro Guru
That looks extremely good. Love the black xt hubs, mavic headset, cook cranks and the neon upfront.
1991 Marin Team Titanium
- Thread starter Benandemu
- Start date
Interesting build.
I liked your comment about patina and then throwing some gorgeous nos sti's on
Personally not a fan of the thin armed Cooks cranks on there, but it's not my bike. Maybe look better with pedals fitted. Either way looking forward to seeing more.
I liked your comment about patina and then throwing some gorgeous nos sti's on
Personally not a fan of the thin armed Cooks cranks on there, but it's not my bike. Maybe look better with pedals fitted. Either way looking forward to seeing more.
Yeah, more Mavic components was something I’d considered. I always loved the fully serviceable Mavic mechs of this era. I recall they had a spinner stand in a shop near me, and it had every derailleur component available separately in a blister pack!
The other ones looked too roughInteresting build.
I liked your comment about patina and then throwing some gorgeous nos sti's on
Personally not a fan of the thin armed Cooks cranks on there, but it's not my bike. Maybe look better with pedals fitted. Either way looking forward to seeing more.
zannderson
Retro Newbie
This is super rad. I love the neon matched fork, stem, and bars.
Slow times with this one!
I’ve got this far at the moment, and there’s a couple of stumbling blocks. I was up late last night trying to balance the spring tension in each set of cantis, but could t work out why the grub screw wasn’t making any difference. I gave up due to tiredness, and had another look this morning, only to realise that there’s a part missing in each right hand canti. I bought these an age ago, so no idea why they aren’t complete units.
I managed to get a cheap incomplete set that had the correct shouldered inserts to push the tension on each spring. So, it’s just a case of waiting for those to turn up in the post.
Also, another slight snag is that I can’t find my BB nylon washers anywhere. I had a load sent over from Action Tec a few years back. They’re inserted between the bearing and the shoulder on the BB axle to push the bearing outboard and remove any play in the axle as the cups aren’t adjustable. When you install the BB without them, you can kind of gauge how many shims you need by the amount axle floats between the cups. It’s usually about 2 or 3mm. Anyway, I can’t find them, and I can’t even see a replacement version anywhere online (without paying a ridiculous amount to have them custom made). I’ll search once again, and then likely resort to having some made up locally on a lathe. They’re not easy to do because they’re so thin.
I did find a NOS shark fin in the box, but couldn’t bring myself to use it, so substituted it with the one in the pics. It needed the decals glueing back down, but other than that it’s still pretty sharp.
Lastly, I’ve gone for white cable outers, as black just looked too dark.
I’ve got this far at the moment, and there’s a couple of stumbling blocks. I was up late last night trying to balance the spring tension in each set of cantis, but could t work out why the grub screw wasn’t making any difference. I gave up due to tiredness, and had another look this morning, only to realise that there’s a part missing in each right hand canti. I bought these an age ago, so no idea why they aren’t complete units.
I managed to get a cheap incomplete set that had the correct shouldered inserts to push the tension on each spring. So, it’s just a case of waiting for those to turn up in the post.
Also, another slight snag is that I can’t find my BB nylon washers anywhere. I had a load sent over from Action Tec a few years back. They’re inserted between the bearing and the shoulder on the BB axle to push the bearing outboard and remove any play in the axle as the cups aren’t adjustable. When you install the BB without them, you can kind of gauge how many shims you need by the amount axle floats between the cups. It’s usually about 2 or 3mm. Anyway, I can’t find them, and I can’t even see a replacement version anywhere online (without paying a ridiculous amount to have them custom made). I’ll search once again, and then likely resort to having some made up locally on a lathe. They’re not easy to do because they’re so thin.
I did find a NOS shark fin in the box, but couldn’t bring myself to use it, so substituted it with the one in the pics. It needed the decals glueing back down, but other than that it’s still pretty sharp.
Lastly, I’ve gone for white cable outers, as black just looked too dark.
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Some good news though; the XT seat post I tried to restore has turned out pretty decent. I know you can get a Kalloy version, but they’re not quite right, and want authenticity really. I’ve a few dodgy old XT posts that show various states of their black finish being removed over time. So, I took my 27.2mm post to be stripped, and powder coated in satin black. Whilst the powder is a little thick, it can be flattened back with emery paper to just below the exposed section. I thought of all the many different ways of getting the lettering back on, including spraying over a stencil, but for practicality and cost I opted for a decal. I did however cut the decal back to the lettering as close as I could. That way I could almost eliminate the sheen of the decal against the satin black.
The decals have been decided upon, and I’ve asked for a proof just before I fully commit. It looks a bit bare without them.
The decals have been decided upon, and I’ve asked for a proof just before I fully commit. It looks a bit bare without them.
