Guinessisgoodforyou
rBotM Winner
Usually 2BA tapping drill, 4.00mm so close to M5 which is 4.2mm.
Last edited:
Yellow Hobbs winter beater of distinction (WBOD)
- Thread starter Jonny69
- Start date
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Good intel! I’m not well up on my BA threads. Despite decades of doing old bikes and cars, I only really know metric, UNC and UNF!
Edit: I should read this: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Association_screw_threads
Guinessisgoodforyou
rBotM Winner
fiveSixteenths
Senior Retro Guru
Coming in here with all your chart and datas…
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
Slight annoyance this morning that my rear mudguard mount only lasted one commute, but nothing a couple of cable ties couldn't temporarily fix:
My commute is pretty rough in patches because the roads are in dreadful condition so I'll obviously need to beef this up a bit. I'll probably re-make it more like the front one, where it's rivetted onto the guard itself but I'll use screws. Then it'll mean I'll be able to take it off and replace it.
Also, randomly, helped a colleague with a puncture yesterday and three ball bearings fell out my tool roll. Quick check with the Vernier told me they were just under 4mm, which makes them 5/32" headset balls:
I remember I was seemingly one ball short when I put the headset back together but didn't give it much thought because you don't have to run the bearing races completely full. Three short might be not be helping the notchiness in my headset though.
My commute is pretty rough in patches because the roads are in dreadful condition so I'll obviously need to beef this up a bit. I'll probably re-make it more like the front one, where it's rivetted onto the guard itself but I'll use screws. Then it'll mean I'll be able to take it off and replace it.
Also, randomly, helped a colleague with a puncture yesterday and three ball bearings fell out my tool roll. Quick check with the Vernier told me they were just under 4mm, which makes them 5/32" headset balls:
I remember I was seemingly one ball short when I put the headset back together but didn't give it much thought because you don't have to run the bearing races completely full. Three short might be not be helping the notchiness in my headset though.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
112 miles covered over 4 days this week. Very wet ride on Monday which was a good test of the mudguards. I was planning to do Critical Mass last night which would have upped the mileage to around 145 with the ride home, but I was just knackered and gave it a miss. The bike is coping with all this brilliantly and it’s just the rider which is suffering!
There’s not much I need to or want to change. The new handlebars are spot on and I re-used the bar tape only because I wasn’t sure if I’d change them again, but it hasn’t shifted so I think it’ll stay unless it causes problems. The friction shifting is absolutely fine. For commuting I do by far prefer the certainty of indexed or brake/shifter shifting because of the amount of time your hands are off the bars while around drivers doing unpredictable things. But so far it has not been a problem. The only thing I could do with changing is either the seatpost or the saddle clamp. Where the seat tube is about 71° on this frame, it puts the saddle either nose-up or nose-down, but not level. I’m riding it a little bit nose-up, but ideally I want it more level and I need a seatpost or clamp with a bit finer adjustment.
There’s not much I need to or want to change. The new handlebars are spot on and I re-used the bar tape only because I wasn’t sure if I’d change them again, but it hasn’t shifted so I think it’ll stay unless it causes problems. The friction shifting is absolutely fine. For commuting I do by far prefer the certainty of indexed or brake/shifter shifting because of the amount of time your hands are off the bars while around drivers doing unpredictable things. But so far it has not been a problem. The only thing I could do with changing is either the seatpost or the saddle clamp. Where the seat tube is about 71° on this frame, it puts the saddle either nose-up or nose-down, but not level. I’m riding it a little bit nose-up, but ideally I want it more level and I need a seatpost or clamp with a bit finer adjustment.
Jonny69
Senior Retro Guru
That very thin upper mounting on the rear mudguard that I'd cable tied up let go on the way to work. Managed an unnecessarily complicated re-work using a 10mm spanner to set the mudguard height, a cable tidy, a brass spacer cut down on the wrong saw to do that sort of thing, M6 bolt through the lot and lots more cable ties. Two to hold the mudguard up and one small one through the hole in the bridge to keep it central. Not my finest work but it works and it was kind of all I had in my stash of bits for cobbling at work.
