Wheel axle - how much should be in the forks.

Re:

Just looked on my laptop instead of my phone & unless 1 bottle of cider is enough to skew my eyes then it look's a lot safer on my laptop screen. Your measured spacing seems right, axles usually a little narrower than the outside of the dropouts by 1 or 2mm either side. If they do protrude then most skewers have a bit of an undercut to allow for poorly fitting axles. Not unusual to see the frame or forks being pulled in together when you tighten up the axle or QR.

Looking on my phone I thought the QR skewer was your axle :facepalm:
 
I might just take it to the LBS to be sure,its a mare to fit it in.

I'm not too fussed about having a QR ,bikes going to be used to commute so anything that makes it harder for the buggers to nick is a good thing in my book.

I'll let you all know what they say.

Thanks for all your replies.
 
Re:

It doesn't matter for QR hubs. Sheldon Brown used to grind some axles right down flush with the locknuts, to allow chain tensioning with vertical dropouts. The hub is held securely by the QR and any axle protrusion just makes fitting easier.

If going from 126mm to 130mm spacing with a hub, there is no need to get a longer axle.
 
Yeah LBS checked it and it's fine.

What's not fine is the bottom bracket is cross threaded! There going to try and fix it next week but if they can't it looks like it's for the scrap.

Oh and it looks like it initially ran on 27 inch wheels not 700,I'm told this means short drop calipers and drilling the forks.

And I need a new rear wheel as the rim is cracked on the one I have, going to look for a freewheel for the six speed or is it possible to get a six speed cassette??

Obviously I'll wait to see if they can fix the BB first.

This cheap commuter ain't going to work out cheap in the end.
 
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