What will happen if....

[LikeClockwork]

....I put a 100mm travel fork on my Kona?

It's the karma Kona in my sig, and as far as I know it's a '98 Hahanna or possibly Lava Dome, so probably originally was sus corrected for an Indy C or some such. Axle to crown on the forks I want to use is 475mm. It's going to be too much isn't it, and wreck the head angle/put the frame under strain... :?:

 

[firedfromthecircus]

I tried 100mm travel forks on my '97 Kili. I would assume that they were probably both meant for 60mm travel forks.

It's unlikely to kill you putting 100mm forks on, but it's not the best either. It seemed to 'fall' into turns a bit. Never threw me though, and seemed less of an issue the faster I went. But on balance, I'd rather not do it again. And seeing as you have a set of P2s that look about right on your Kona I wouldn't bother changing them for sus. But then, I don't like sus, so I'm biased.

I'll see if I can find a pic of my Kili and you can see the front end looks a bit lifted.

If you look at the chainstay angle you will see that is is pretty much horizontal, meaning there is no BB drop. That combined with the steering angle change and probably trail as well will contribute to slightly suspect handling.

 

[LikeClockwork]

Re:

Thanks Barry!

It just doesn't look right at all does it, I agree with you. Ah well, best I accept that the lovely light modern forks I've got just aren't going to work on a retro :facepalm:

Admission time, those aren't P2's, they're off a Carrera Subway... But they look the part and they work, I never seem to be quick enough when proper P2's come up for sale, and on the bay they always go for silly money. I prefer rigid really, this was great off road before I put the slicks on it...

 

[firedfromthecircus]

Ah, had me fooled.

Stick up a wanted on here if you are still after some. I'm sure a pair could be had for reasonable money. There's loads of folk like me on here who just hoard stuff and can't be bothered with sales posts, but may well answer a well worded plea.

 

[LikeClockwork]

Re:

lol, trouble is I will probably change my mind again if I had some!

Waiting for my next frame to arrive tomorrow, then I need to make some decisions about build plans for both, and do some consolidation of parts between the two... I may need P2's for the other one! :facepalm:

 

[Raging_Bulls]

Re: Re:

Thanks Barry!

It just doesn't look right at all does it, I agree with you. Ah well, best I accept that the lovely light modern forks I've got just aren't going to work on a retro :facepalm:

Consider getting a set of first generation RS Rebas (the ones with the canti mounts) and the spacer kit so you can lower them to any length you want. Might as well get the overhaul kit while you're at it, they'll be close to 10 years old anyway.

 

[02gf74]

Funnily enough i was going to point out the horizontal chainstay, deffo not right.

 

[markwashington]

I've got a 1998 Lavadome, and wouldn't go over 80mm fork length if I was honest. If you're after a pair of forks running from 70-80mm drop me a pm, I've got quite a few pairs which might be suitable and they wouldn't cost you much more than postage.

 

[LikeClockwork]

Re:

Thanks Mark! The general idea is to run two bikes, one set up for road and one for off road, just can't quite make up my mind about sus for the off roader...will be easier today once the other frame has arrived but it won't take more than 80mm travel either, and two steel rigids would be nice.... :facepalm:

 

[mattr]

If you can space your 100mm forks down to 80mm, combined with the fact that modern forks actually sit into their travel by 25-35% (if they are set up right) you probably won't be too far off the 50-60 mm travel that the frame was designed for. It'll reduce your effective (while riding) a-c by about 40mm.......

My original Judy XCs had no sag worth speaking of. Still bottomed out on a regular basis! Going to some half way decent air/oil forks (Rond quake air) was a revelation.