What length spokes (am I measuring correctly)?

[sefton1275gt]

My new Scott bike has some bent spokes

Both front and back seem to measure 253mm. Measured from the bend to the entry of the nipple.

But is this the correct measurement?

Or are these standard lengths that someone could advice?

Should I also buy fresh nipples?

Cheers

 

[doctor-bond]

I’m a wheelbuilding noob, so have been checking out online tutorials: try Ryan Builds Wheels on YT. Very clear.

Spoke measurement I think is from the inside of the curve to the end of the thread. If you’re replacing the spokes, you’ll need to take them out so can measure them on the bench properly. They need to match the rim and the hub and the spoke pattern used, so have to be mm accurate.

If someone else is going to do it for you, they should be able to calculate the length of spoke needed based on your rim and hub and lacing pattern.

Nipples are cheap. Good fun.

 

[bikeworkshop]

^ that's right.
I wouldn't bother with new nipples unless they are crumbly - if one needs replacing, they all need replacing - unless the spoke snapped off in there!

Truth be told though, spokes can be massively bent, and then unbent.

Take the bent spoke out and take it to a shop to get a match.
can't go wrong.
Or take it out and straighten it.

I'll bet you it doesn't break.

I showed Ryan how to build his 1st wheel

Tom

 

[Cloverleaf]

Unless I've re-rimmed the wheel many, many times (mostly when I was racing DH), or the spoke has sharp edges from rocks gouging them or the chain digging in, I just straighten out bent spokes. They're pretty tough. If they're fatigued and snapping at the threads or at the elbow then that's the point where I'll consider re-spoking a wheel in its entirety as from that point on they usually all start to go (for me at least, given the sort of riding I do and the abuse that gets thrown on the bike), especially on 29" wheels. If the spoke isn't bent at a right angle, try straightening it first. Nipples I'd agree with @bikeworkshop too, unless they're white with corrosion, or rounded out from the number of times you've had to crank them up, just leave them. Then again if I came across a wheel with aluminium nipples that would definitely be a candidate for replacing with some proper brass ones. Aluminium nipples are one of the worst mtb inventions ever.

 

[doctor-bond]

I showed Ryan how to build his 1st wheel

Tom

Good work!

 

[bikeworkshop]

Unless I've re-rimmed the wheel many, many times (mostly when I was racing DH), or the spoke has sharp edges from rocks gouging them or the chain digging in, I just straighten out bent spokes. They're pretty tough. If they're fatigued and snapping at the threads or at the elbow then that's the point where I'll consider re-spoking a wheel in its entirety as from that point on they usually all start to go (for me at least, given the sort of riding I do and the abuse that gets thrown on the bike), especially on 29" wheels. If the spoke isn't bent at a right angle, try straightening it first. Nipples I'd agree with @bikeworkshop too, unless they're white with corrosion, or rounded out from the number of times you've had to crank them up, just leave them. Then again if I came across a wheel with aluminium nipples that would definitely be a candidate for replacing with some proper brass ones. Aluminium nipples are one of the worst mtb inventions ever.

Nipples, all or nothing!
God i hate alloy nipples.
Luckily in the pic they are god's own brass!

 

[sefton1275gt]

Cheers. Some feel pretty jagged in places.

I'll remove them, measure and order some.

Will be a good skill to learn

 

[bikeworkshop]

It's worth replacing them if they are chewed. This will create a stress riser increasing the risk of failure at that point.
But if they feel smooth, just bend them straight
If replacing a single spoke, put the new one in, then bring the tension up until it pings like its neighbours.
Job done.

 

[wynne]

Not all alloy nipples are terrible. Sapim ones are excellent. I've rebuilt many wheels that we built in the first place after rims have been worn out - and I rarely find a seized or damaged Sapim alloy nipple. We prep them carefully to start with and loctite them at finishing to stop the ingress of filth. For a company that generally makes good products DT Swiss's alloy nipples are awful. We throw the ones supplied with their rims straight in the metal recycling. Also whatever Hunt uses to build their wheels (Pilar?) are abysmal - we regularly rebuild Hunt wheels using Sapim spokes and alloy nipples.

 

[bikeworkshop]

Not all alloy nipples are terrible. Sapim ones are excellent. I've rebuilt many wheels that we built in the first place after rims have been worn out - and I rarely find a seized or damaged Sapim alloy nipple. We prep them carefully to start with and loctite them at finishing to stop the ingress of filth. For a company that generally makes good products DT Swiss's alloy nipples are awful. We throw the ones supplied with their rims straight in the metal recycling. Also whatever Hunt uses to build their wheels (Pilar?) are abysmal - we regularly rebuild Hunt wheels using Sapim spokes and alloy nipples.

The trouble with using an aluminium alloy nipple though, on a component used between different metals (spoke and rim), is that if it gets exposed to uk's salted roads, it becomes a sacrificial anode.

Some alloy nips definitely have a stronger (internal) surface than others,
sapim are way superior to dt,
but it's rare to see a well used 5yo wheel with alloy nips that aren't seized or crumbly.

Potentially if they are kept clean and perhaps lubricated, they might last better, but in our market segment they are all trashed.