Well that didn't last long. Ressurection: Marin IFT.

That‘s bad form from the seller. I know there is no come back, but someone else might have just taken it out for a spin. Only been on a bike once when the frame failed, but it was scary as XXXX And I was lucky to come out of it with only road rash and a confused look on my face. Thank god you had your stuff together as much as you did and gave it a good check. Hope it works out With the frame and Karma pays the seller a visit.
 
Thanks for all the advice, I'm not having it repaired. All signs (and forums) say stay away from this.
If it had been anywhere else on the frame I might have thought about it but this one is done.

Payed 100,- euros for it, has maybe 50,- worth of bits and bobs so it's not that bad.
I will be looking for a steel frame as suggested but whatever comes first in my size is an option.
At this point I've been looking for larger frame for a good while so I'm really just disappointed I can't build myself a bike.

Also does anyone know the "real" size of a 20" GT frame C-T? Am I correct to say 57CM?
I think my old 18" Zaskar measured 52.5CM.
If so a 20" would suffice and widen my options/chances finding something I'd buy.
 
I will be looking for a steel frame as suggested but whatever comes first in my size is an option.
At this point I've been looking for larger frame for a good while so I'm really just disappointed I can't build myself a bike.
I have a Mk 1 (first year release 1992) Marin Team Issue - frame only. Tange Ultimate Prestige and just a smidge heavier than their top of the line titanium frame. I thought I was going to build it up, but other priorities. I have Park Tool rear dropout alignment gauges and the rear derailleur hanger alignment tool and already checked the bike when I bought it.

I am not sure how Marin measures frames. However from my notes when I bought it some time ago,

Serial number: M12JA0126
Center to Center Head Tube to Seat Tube through the center line of the top tube is:

58 cm (22.8")

Center to Center Bottom Bracket Housing along the seat tube where an imaginary line intersects the imaginary line of the top tube is:

44.5 cm (17.5")

There is currently a BB UN90 XTR bottom bracket in it. It spins freely without grittiness, but I would recommend a new one.

Screenshot 2023-01-27 at 13.01.47.png Screenshot 2023-01-27 at 13.02.03.png
 
Thanks for all the advice, I'm not having it repaired. All signs (and forums) say stay away from this.
If it had been anywhere else on the frame I might have thought about it but this one is done.

Payed 100,- euros for it, has maybe 50,- worth of bits and bobs so it's not that bad.
I will be looking for a steel frame as suggested but whatever comes first in my size is an option.
At this point I've been looking for larger frame for a good while so I'm really just disappointed I can't build myself a bike.

Also does anyone know the "real" size of a 20" GT frame C-T? Am I correct to say 57CM?
I think my old 18" Zaskar measured 52.5CM.
If so a 20" would suffice and widen my options/chances finding something I'd buy.

Repairable and safe to use after, but as others have said, its a money/value thing.
 
That fail looks like a bad tubing quality issue and less a stress issue. I think a repair is just going to help you find where the next fail point is.

I suppose it depends how much money you are prepared to spend on rectifying the issue.
 
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