truing / lacing a bike wheel advice

does the quality of spokes and nipples make a difference?
Obviously stainless steel ones
Yes.

Whatever you do don't buy/use those cheap zinc plated spokes.

I even noticed a difference between DT Swiss & Sapim (which to be honest surprised me).
I got sapim laser in my latest wheel build, mainly because they were exactly the right length (not to mention a bit cheaper).
But I was not that impressed. Have a look at the 'quality':


You don't see this on their website because they are illustrated, not photographed with a macro lens.
 
For first time builds I'd suggest halo straight gauge spokes. they are cheap, stainless and brilliant.

to stress relieve a wheel properly you need more than just to squish 2 spokes together. lay it on the lap with your legs spread so you are support the rim then push down on the hub as hard as possible. flip and repeat. do it a few time. then back in the jig for retruing.

It's been known for us to walk on the spokes, but that is a bit excessive.
 
thanks synchro and novcaine will watch that properly later. The stand is probably fine but are the pins that go on the rim meant to be loose?
They move really easily
 
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thanks synchro and novcaine will watch that properly later. The stand is probably fine but are the pins that go on the rim meant to be loose?
They move really easily
That's the bit I replaced with m3 or m4 (can't remember) screws. There should be a small o ring in there at the moment. I made some little ends on the printer. I'm not home right now but I'll grab a piccy later of my modifications.
 
I build wheels for a living. Before i built wheels for a living i built wheels for myself and a few friends. I did it mostly by instinct. I started off by copying wheels that had been built by a professional.

I would echo @August Bicycles's comments. If you work for, or as, a custom wheelbuilder the actual building of wheels might be less than 50% of your time - after you've dealt with phone and email enquiries, invoicing, stock ordering etc.

I agree with many of @synchronicity's points except his suggestion that Sapim spokes are inferior to DT Swiss. Both brands are excellent.

Assuming you can pick up the basics there are a few things i think are really important that i have learned since working as a wheelbuilder:
1 DT Swiss spoke wrench all the way - it grips nipples very securely.
2 Spoke prep and lubrication. Dipping the spoke threads in linseed oil helps keep them moving as you raise tensions and helps prevent them seizing long term. Lubricating nipples with a light oil through the spoke holes as you build really helps get up to tension.
3 Stress your spokes. We have a hydraulic press in the workshop, but you can achieve similar results by really squeezing groups of spokes as you build. Once wheels are at tension we leave them overnight and then press them again the next day. Then we tension them up again.
4 A tension meter is very useful. Even a cheap one should tell you if your tensions are relatively even. Correct, even tension is key to building a strong wheel.

My advice is to go for it. I am still riding wheels i built 15 years ago in a state of blissful ignorance.
Rich
 
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That's the bit I replaced with m3 or m4 (can't remember) screws. There should be a small o ring in there at the moment. I made some little ends on the printer. I'm not home right now but I'll grab a piccy later of my modifications.
Thanks for your help it's great
Sorry for asking all these questions
I'm looking at nipple drivers, are they all the same size?
 
Again, I made a starter driver for deep section rims then use a ground down flat blade screwdriver for initsl tightening. In 20 plus years I've never bothered with anything more.
I think only siepem have ever tried to change the nipple to a square drive, all the rest have always been the same for me.
Screenshot_20220414-195125_Instagram.jpg
 
2mm is 14 gauge, 2.6 is 12 gauge.
2.27 is a user error. 🤣 (I joke)

2.27 is in tolerance for a 14 gauge or a 12 gauge, easiest way to tell is to thread a known nipple on.
 
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