truing / lacing a bike wheel advice

I build wheels for a living, from past experience I have shared plenty of knowledge with people. A couple of them decided to start their own wheelbuilding brands as a hobby subsidised by their day jobs, they also got in touch with a few of the brands that I regularly built for and offered to supply them at a cheaper rate than me. Thankfully I had loyal clients that let me know and continued to work with me knowing that this was my only income.

Due to this, I tend not to discuss my process with anyone.

Some of the reason that wheelbuilders charge what they do is overheads, cost of tools and the upkeep of them (recalibration of tensiometers etc) and the price of public liability insurance. Also some wheels only get built after a lengthy discussion with the client, 10-20 emails maybe. This is all time that needs to be charged for. Usually rim tapes/tubeless tape is included in build labour too. There is also the time taken to measure all parts and calculate spoke lengths. We cut and thread spokes in-house to 0.5mm increments for more precision, off the shelf spokes are usually available in 2mm increments.

I encourage people to do as much stuff themselves as they can and be self sufficient, you don’t need the best/most expensive tools out there to do a great job.

But I feel that lots of people think that we overcharge without considering the aspects I’ve previously mentioned.

Sorry! Haha. Rant over!
I was already thinking this, and when I last had a set built specifically the amazing mechanic in my lbs did it on a saturday morning, and I drank tea and watched, over twenty years ago, what it cost me was relative to how long it would take me and him building them with experience knowing I was going to abuse them, and it was money well spent as they were strong. I saw that distinction as he knew me, had seen what I did to bikes etc.. he would of been a little older than I am now I guess, so it was old news to him!?!
I think the important distinction to make is between re using secondhand obsolete parts you have owing to cost of the hobby etc, Which is where I am at.. and the learning new skills, if the pedigree of parts, or end use befit your level of engineering commitment that is very different to me and my level of pottering about on twenty year old bikes that are not worth a whole lot really...
I dont race or attempt to subvert gravity any longer!
Same as any vocation, I hope others come along you can share your experience with and not regret it, as like so many things the real skills are passed on, not taught in a book or classroom.
I hate when people don't take everything into account, and its a shame to hear of people taking the piss, hopefully anyone reading your reply will keep this in mind, if your customers are loyal you are doing it right, I was loyal to my local shop until his service took a nose dive , and his amazing mechanic left.. that's when bikes were added to the list of things I buy tools and teach myself which nowadays is almost everything as good service is not common place.
 
Sore on your fingers. Looped wrenches are the most comfortable but I also have a cylco one because its got a deep socket that engages with the full nipple for final adjustment.
 
Normally yes. I use brass nipples which are a tad softer so I like to have the full coverage but it isn't needed for all but the most awkward of builds.
 
Its not rocket science with technical help but building strong ‘safe wheels’ and knowing how to true and tension them properly takes experience. An experienced wheel builder can flip a fork over, use two elastic bands and twigs to hand to true/repair a wheel in the wild. Appreciating the tiny spoke turn adjustments needed at the apex of a ‘non true’ on one side or a hop, while finessing ever increasing/decreasing micro adjustments on each spoke takes time to learn. The bicycle wheel is supposed to be the strongest structure invented but faulty lacing or over and under-tensioning a wheel can be fatal - simples… so get your wheels checked if you are new to this. Also never force tru a seriously buckled ( permanent deformation ) or worn out rim, unless you know what you are doing and have NO other option. I have been on rides with people who did this to save cash and it ended very badly for them when the wheel tension suddenly let go and it jammed in the fork.
 
A couple more things which haven't been mentioned yet.
(probably because it's not in a wheel builder's best/own interest to tell you🤪)

1) Lubricate the spoke threads and also where the nipples go into the rim.

2) Don't forget to stress relieve spokes before you ride them.
Here's one method:

I tend to grab the spokes and squeeze them together in pairs instead (or as well).
 

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