The GT STS Thread Members Bikes and Tech Info

Thank you for posting that, this is the second shock I have put on this frame and I wondered why the one that came off was much shorter. I thought it was stuck down.
Ok easy solution is to put the other shock back on and see.
Cheers
 
Re:

with lowering or lifting the rear of the bike, you will change the bike's geometry.
- lifting will make it more nervous.
- lowering gives a smoother drive and salves your short cable hosing problem
 
Re:

Why I am GT- :
my bikes, all own build some bad quality pics sorry
RTS 2
2012-04-09%2015.06.00.jpg

LTS
670-VTT%20Messancy%2021-04-2014.JPG

STS
IMG_20140806_142534.jpg

Xizang R2
1.06.2014%20OIGNIES%20EN%20THIERACHE%2022e%20Viroinvalloise.jpg
 
Here are two pics of mine. I just finished building it and I still have to check if the damper is setup correctly:

IMG_20140811_213323.jpg



A small speclist:
Fork: Pace RC36 Pro Class
Shock: NOS Rock Shox Super Deluxe
Rear Mech: Shimano XTR M950
Front Mech: Shimano XTR M950
Shifters: Shimano XTR M950
Levers: Kooka
Brakes: Shimano XTR M950
Stem: Roox
Bar: Easton Monkeybar
Headset: King
Seatpost: Roox
Saddle: Selle Italia Flite
Cranks: Kooka
Cassette: Shimano XTR M950
Wheels: Mavic X517 Ceramic / Hugi 240 naven
Tires: Nobby Nic/Racing Ralph
 
MynameisCasper":1v9kis0s said:
Here are two pics of mine. I just finished building it and I still have to check if the damper is setup correctly:

Yes Casper, you should lower your rear a lot.
But I do not think you can do that with that damper,
because you have the earlier titanium link, you will need a shorter damper.
the rear shock has only to be 125 cm long, center- to center eye.
the tip of your saddle has to be from 5 to 7.5 cm behind the center of the bracket axle,
you can only achieve that with a shorter damper or lifting the top connection point,
here a picture of my LTS with higher damper mount:

IMG_20140814_100157.jpg

IMG_20140814_100223.jpg


Geometry:

IMG_20140814_100431.jpg


I am still waiting on my new Kind shock 125 mm, coming from China in a few weeks.
Also Fox can still build a 125 cm shock, a friend of mine only just ordered one in Belgium.
 
@MynameisCasper
Why did you mount the front brake to the wrong side of the fork?

I have the exact same frame sitting in my basement and waiting for a proper rebuild.
This is how it looked before I took it apart: :oops:

@Mofofo: I think this frame was called LTS Thermoplast, not STS. The STS came out a few months later. I know, STS stands for Single Tube System - witch this frame has. But the first few frames had little sticker, calling this technique "STT" - Single Tube Technology, while the frame was called LTS.


Right now, I am building a RTS-1 (I think).



My current little problem with this build is this:
http://videos.mtb-news.de/37221

I am kind of exploring the history and development of rear suspensions by building up those bikes. :D
While thoroughly testing and riding the RTS next summer, I will slowly build up the LTS.
I am really looking forward the experience the difference.

@GT- This is a nice collection you have there. :cool:
And your solution on that shock mount - it looks a bit wobbly. But it seems to work. :shock:
Where is the turning point in that?
 
Thias":3rq3ph9z said:
@GT- And your solution on that shock mount - it looks a bit wobbly. But it seems to work. Where is the turning point in that?

Hi, thanks
That shock mount is made from a very special alu type, it is super strong material almost titanium.
Therefor difficult to make nice looking. This was the solution to use to do my enduro trips until my new ks shock arrives, but It is found just perfect and can also stay on the bike.
It did survive a +2 m drop, since it is not a downhill bike that has to do :D
I'm not sure what you mean by turning point. But it moves on the same shock eyes as was.

I can see you have the same shock problem on your thermoplastic LTS.
Only few know about that early STS, not many where made of that model.
As for the RTS, it is a RTS3 because it is the alu rear frame.
A good xc bike if you know about the damping. It needs a negative spring.
My solution was a rubber between frame and link to soften the out coming end.
You are only needing some nylon shims to eliminate that play on that link.
 
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