Ive also put the decals on....its amazing how it changes a frame! Im leaving it fairly anonymous as to model.....give people something to mull over outside cafes.
Check hub lettering and rim lettering match direction......1st set in....flip it 2nd set in......twist the hub.....check the valve hole lines up with the center of hub lettering......flip it 3rd set in.....flip it 4th set in.
Congratulations Mr Tootyred.....its a baby wheel.!
Frustrating day today. My ongoing saga of delivery failures from Evri came to a slight resolve, after i came home to find 3 out of my 6 "delayed" parcels ( worst 3 weeks late), had arrived....muppet delivery man studiously ignored the porch, choosing to leave them outside the patio door in the rain.....not only that but he photographed one that needed proof ( although it was cancelled 2 weeks ago and refunded) on said step and then wrote a note saying he had "left it in shed"???
Annoyingly, i find the stem in one parcel is no good as its bent.....so that's a waste of time, but the ebay seller has given me my money back...he didn't know.....well lets give him the benefit.
The second had a mech in it, now dirty i can handle, but this is missing both the bloody bushes out of the jockey wheels.....that's probably why they are floating around like a cork on the ocean! Total p.i.t.a.
Of well hopefully my extra spokes will appear tomorrow so i can carry on with that!
Sadly, the pitting on them had probably gone a bit to far. They are ok, and the guys have done a sterling job of trying to cover it, but they are not the best...
Luckly, i have another pair af late 80s tange forks hanging on the wall! Ready to go. I was trying to avoid this because the wall hangers are ISO and all the early pre 90 marins are JIS.
So, to fix the discrepancy between forks and frame (at least its now the easy way round!), i have sacrificed the second hand ritchey logic headset. Basically, ive rolled both the cups on the linisher to remove the required 0.2mm from each.
I know you can press iso into jis frames, but i think its a ba***rd thing to do, as once stretched.....like so many things, it will never be a good tight fit again. Better to chuck a £10 headset than bugger the frame imho.
Also my extra spokes turned so i can get on with the front wheel.
I dont know about you, but i find the price of nice parts a cross between scary and unbelievable!
£100 for a good m732 mech and £70 for a pair of slightly tatty shifters.....its just not do-able .....I sadly don't have pockets that deep.
The good news is, nobody wants the tatty stuff.....and most of it can be salvaged.
Im starting with the shifters....8 speed xc pro. Ive actually got 2 sets in the process of repair, one set 7 speed one set 7/8.
One sets a bit tatty, typical damage from people standing the bike on them to fix punctures!
The others were dogs......£25 off ebay.....but rarer 8 speed.
The first bit is to strip them apart and file / sand out all the damage, normally the clamps are far worse than the levers, but on the dogs both were bad.
The guts of the dogs had also seen better days, water had got in, but rust dip will cure that.
The other set were scruffy and has lost a mount thread. Remember, they only need to be tight enough to stop them moving, that's it....no more! They don't need to be done up by the hulk! They now have an m5 helicoil in the mount and are back in action.
The guts are bagged up and now we have nice smooth parts, they can go into a batch of stuff to go for cerakote.
Unlike powder, cerakote is very thin ceramic coating.....so what you send is what you get back.....it hides nothing in the way of imperfections. But, moving parts still move and your seatpost still fits!
So here they are before and after. More pictures when they come back......
Whilst they are away, i will move o to the front and rear mechs.