NAILTRAIL96
Senior Retro Guru
Nope, it's all Ashley bodywork and they're cosmic wheels.
Apologies for dragging it OT
Apologies for dragging it OT
Removing rust from inside frame...?
- Thread starter Elsubstar
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poweredbypies
Old School Grand Master
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My unc did an Austin Healy 3000 to works raly spec a good few years back that made the front cover of practical classics. Took it to the nec for the owners club stand. A couple of healy specialists asked if it was a real works one and the chap who owns the one they based it on said it was nicer than his. I like the midgets/sprites but would really like a mga tc just such a pretty car.
NAILTRAIL96
Senior Retro Guru
Is that the one that was restored and refeatured last year?
I'd rather have an MGA but I was about 15 grand short when I paid £500 for this one .
I'd rather have an MGA but I was about 15 grand short when I paid £500 for this one
.
poweredbypies
Old School Grand Master
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No his was about 15 years ago poss longer sad story to it actually, it was sold to a collector in the states its 2nd trip over the pond it had race history in the us. It was shipped over but when it got to the states and opened from its big metal box it hadnt been secured properly. it ended up about 2 foot shorter than it should have been and irreplaceable parts had ended up only fit for the recycling bin :cry: :cry: :cry:
Iwasgoodonce
Old School Grand Master
D'oh, I thought it was a MK I or II GT6.
That Deox stuff is very good. Maybe use it first and then follow up with Waxoil. This would also perhaps trap any small loose bits and stop the rattle as well as helping prevent new rust forming.
That Deox stuff is very good. Maybe use it first and then follow up with Waxoil. This would also perhaps trap any small loose bits and stop the rattle as well as helping prevent new rust forming.
NAILTRAIL96
Senior Retro Guru
I had thought about thinning some wax down and injecting an old frame but it's pretty weighty stuff.
The metal ready drys, gives good protection and weighs next to nothing.
There is a more expensive option called steel gaurd, this is the stuff they spray Sea Harriers with, or at least they did when we had some.
There might be a surplus of it being sold off by the military somewhere.
The metal ready drys, gives good protection and weighs next to nothing.
There is a more expensive option called steel gaurd, this is the stuff they spray Sea Harriers with, or at least they did when we had some.
There might be a surplus of it being sold off by the military somewhere.
Elsubstar
Dirt Disciple
Ive found some metal ready on ebay, as it sounds like it does everything i need. There is a hole in the seat stay 3/4 mm wide, so Ill use a syringe to get the stuff in there and then give it a good shake. I'm hoping it will dissolve all the loose rust in there so I can drain it out and then it can dry. How long would you leave the metal ready in there for?
NAILTRAIL96
Senior Retro Guru
The metal ready goes in, cover the hole and slosh it about.
Then just sit the frame down and let it dry, if some leaks out it won't matter, equally if it all stays in as a pool of fluid it will eventually dry. Metal ready is a rust converter, it stops the chemical reaction and leaves a film to protect.
The electrox removes rust and leaves a bare metal surface needing coating, It can't be left in or it leaves the rust in with it and then it's a real pain to remove.
Then just sit the frame down and let it dry, if some leaks out it won't matter, equally if it all stays in as a pool of fluid it will eventually dry. Metal ready is a rust converter, it stops the chemical reaction and leaves a film to protect.
The electrox removes rust and leaves a bare metal surface needing coating, It can't be left in or it leaves the rust in with it and then it's a real pain to remove.
