My early 1990's Raleigh Serengeti

simulacrum

Retro Newbie
Hi, I have a Raleigh Serengeti that was bought in probably 1991-92 (I can't remember exactly). It was my first 'good' bike. I rode it a lot and then life happens and you don't have time anymore. I've rode it off and on over the years, a few times/summer on the road/paths. And now the front suspension (aftermarket Marzocchi xc600 in gunmetal blue) is completely mush and it's probably not a good idea to ride it as is. And the shifters (STX) slip a bit and need to click more than once in order to get them to go sometimes. The bike has always been stored indoors and would appear to be in good shape (to the largely untrained eye - mine).

I was going to get a used bike for a couple hundred dollars as I'm not going to be riding hardcore or anything, mostly on streets/paths, but I would like the ability to cut across a few fields, up down hills etc.. if I want to. I would feel really lame not being able to - even if I don't end up doing it a lot.

So, the question... What to do? Is this frame (Tange Infinity - double butted) worth hanging onto and fixing up a bit. From what I can tell the Tange Infinity steel is pretty decent and so I'm thinking maybe I should keep it. Especially when I've been reading that Aluminum frames (which is what pretty much any used bike is going to be) are basically completely unknown in terms of the frame not cracking etc.. after 5-10 years - which again... is probably what all the decent used bikes for 2-$300 are going to be.

I have the original rigid front fork that I could put on it, or I could see if the suspension fork is easy to fix (is an air /oil fork) Maybe just needs air/ oil ??
The other potential issue is that it's a threaded headset.

And the shifters I could live with but would be nice to fix so they always shift when I want them to lol. Maybe my handle bars are too old and will brake ?

I think I'd be comfortable putting about $200 (canadian) into this bike if it would last another 5-10 years. I would love a new bike but I'm not spending $700 right now. Maybe in a few years if I find I'm riding more again.

So do I get a used aluminum bike (whose history I don't know) with upgraded components compared to mine but maybe the seller is sketchy and I get a cracked frame that's painted over etc...

Fix mine up, is it worth it ?
 
tintin40":n31ycnjs said:
Pictures could help? Never heard of this model Raleigh


Ya, I've had a hard time looking up info about it online which is partly what has led me to posting this question here. I'll put up some photos tonight.

Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Re:

I'm guessing this was a Raleigh USA model, the UK bikes used Reynolds tubing pretty much exclusively (I can't remember Tange tubing being used in the UK at least).
 
Re:

Ok, here's some pics. I'm not sure if there's an etiquette to how many photos to post, and I and wasn't sure what were the most crucial things to photograph but this should help at least.

And to DynaCol, thanks for the post, I don't know where it was made but it has a Raleigh Canada crest on the front which would imply it was made here but, maybe not so much. Not sure what the labeling laws were like in the 90's.

Thanks in advance :)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8385.jpg
    IMG_8385.jpg
    153 KB · Views: 1,653
  • IMG_8389.jpg
    IMG_8389.jpg
    89.6 KB · Views: 1,647
  • IMG_8390.jpg
    IMG_8390.jpg
    100.3 KB · Views: 1,641
  • IMG_8397.jpg
    IMG_8397.jpg
    70.8 KB · Views: 1,638
  • IMG_8392.jpg
    IMG_8392.jpg
    72.4 KB · Views: 1,637
  • IMG_8396.jpg
    IMG_8396.jpg
    83.2 KB · Views: 1,649
Re:

That's a lovely looking bike and I would say that it's well worth doing up. Having just checked what 200 Canadian dollars is in pounds - about £115 - you could get that running well for that figure or less.

I would put the original rigid forks back on, since you're mainly riding on road - and they will save weight too. You can investigate and try to fix the suspension fork at your leisure, then. The threaded headset is far from an insurmountable problem if you get a replacement suspension fork: most will require a threadless headset, but you can install a threadless headset in place of the threaded one if you want. YouTube is your friend for instructional videos on how to do that. The real issue is if the frame takes a 1" headset rather than 1 1/8" headset: that would seriously limit your choices.

The shifters: open them up and clean thoroughly. If that doesn't fix the problem, you can search eBay for original replacements. Integrated STX shifters and brake levers are thin on the ground but can be found. LX would do just as well, or better! New, Altus level, shifters/levers might be cheaper but the levers will be for V brakes, so you would have to change the brakes too.

If you don't spend all your budget on shifters/fork/headset, there are various smaller things that will make for a crisper ride: new chain and cassette, new cables (inners and outers), new brake pads. (In fact, looking again, the cassette looks like it needs replacing - pointy-looking in places.)

You are very unlikely to get a better bike for the price of what it would take to get your existing bike running well again. Make the most of it. Look after it. And it should last you another five or ten years.
 
Throw away the chainset, the headtube is 1 1/8 so so nice Ahead forks can be fitted giving you better headsets and stem choice

go mad with it

or ride as is as above
 
Re:

Definitely one to keep I'd say - I ride worse condition bikes on a daily basis!

Frame is pretty nice and will probably last forever.

- I wouldn't worry about the bars personally. If they aren't bent or cracked now, they will be absolutely fine, nothing to worry about.

- Very little to go wrong with those forks so should be an easy fix. I had a similar pair and they were pretty heavy though, so putting the rigid forks on might be better for road use.

- Threaded headset - loads of bikes still use these, parts are readily available. I actually prefer a threaded headset on a road / hybrid type bike, I find them more reliable and long lasting. You can probably re-use the headset on there unless it's particularly worn.

- Shifters might start working if you simply spray some light oil into them and work it in. The cogs will be gummed up is all (probably). They might not need opening up.

With a couple of pleasant hours re-indexing the gears, oiling everything, cleaning etc, you will likely have it riding lovely with next to no outlay.
 
Re:

Thanks for all the replies! And good news for me that it's worth fixin' up a bit! The bad news is that all of you have presented good cases for upgrading specific components, and if I add them all up... well I didn't add them all up but I bet it all adds up pretty quick lol.

I think I'll bring it into a local shop and see what they think and how much it would be to do some work, if it's too much I may do it myself - I think I could do most or all of the work (other than fixing the fork-I have no idea about that-if it's expensive I'll definitely replace it with the rigid fork), it's more a matter of finding the time and if there's specific bike tools that are required for some of the work then I need to figure out how much they are vs. getting the bike shop to do it I guess.

So, a couple questions still if I could...

I think the first thing I should do is see if some lube will work on the shifters. Then see if the shop thinks its a cheap fix for the suspension - I phoned someone and they said it just may need air ? If that is cheap then what ?

It was suggested to get a new 'chainset' - That's the crank and bottom bracket and chain rings ? It was also suggested to get a new cassette (rear cogs/gears ? ) and a new chain. Would you think it would be better to do that compared to getting something else done or would those be the first choice upgrades ? If only one of those can happen then which one would be the priority ?

Also, I was under the impression that new tires would be a good idea as when the rubber gets old (original tires/rims) it gets a bit dangerous/not as grippy etc ?

legrandefromage how do you know the headset is 1 1/8 ? ... I'm not doubting you just curious how you can tell from the pics lol ?

Thanks again.
 
Re: Re:

simulacrum":2o7c3hxs said:
Then see if the shop thinks its a cheap fix for the suspension - I phoned someone and they said it just may need air ? If that is cheap then what ?

Someone on here will confirm definitively I'm sure, but my old marzocchi's could literally be "pumped up" from a standard Schrader (tyre) valve under the plastic adjusters at the top of the fork leg. However in most cases on air suspension forks you need a special pump & adapter, if this is the case it'd probably be cheaper to ask your friendly bike shop to do this to save buying one. Should take less than 5 mins for them to do it.

simulacrum":2o7c3hxs said:
It was suggested to get a new 'chainset' - That's the crank and bottom bracket and chain rings ? It was also suggested to get a new cassette (rear cogs/gears ? ) and a new chain. Would you think it would be better to do that compared to getting something else done or would those be the first choice upgrades ? If only one of those can happen then which one would be the priority ?

Honestly, unless the gears skip, or you plan on doing serious milage from the offset, I wouldn't change anything yet. It all looks in very low milage condition and will last years as-is. The chainset up front may be quite heavy hence the (slightly flippant) suggestion to change them, but I really wouldn't bother. I have the same Alivio chainset and it's very reliable. Mine is significantly more worn than yours is!

simulacrum":2o7c3hxs said:
Also, I was under the impression that new tires would be a good idea as when the rubber gets old (original tires/rims) it gets a bit dangerous/not as grippy etc ?

Yeh old tyres can be a bit hairy, and prone to blow-out's if the sidewall is deteriorated.
 
Back
Top