Magura Race-Line/HS 33 help please

[Benandemu]

I thought I was fairly clued up on these things, but I've come to a halt on a full strip down.
My intention is to rebuild and paint them, but I can't figure out the lever arrangement.
I have taken everything apart, but cannot seem to remove the brake pad adjuster knob. It turns in its hole, but doesn't seem to move up and down as you'd expect. It has a tiny washer attached at its base, which turns with the knob, when you rotate it.
I noticed that the thread on the inside of the knob is flat on one side, but doesn't appear to line up with anything.
How the hell do I remove the adjuster knob, and assess why it doesn't work?

I'll include a picture in a minute....

 

[Benandemu]

I hate the mid- nineties mounts compared to the late nineties evolution ones.

The following are the close up shots of inside the lever, and the adjuster thread.

 

[Xesh]

The red adjuster should just pull off (you may need to use a small screwdriver to lever it a bit) and the you should be able to remove the adjusting pin itself. If it doesn't move in and out when you turn the adjuster then it's probably threaded. This is a common problem with these due to heavy handed people continuing to try to turn them once they've stopped. :roll:

I think I may have some spares but I'll have to check at the shop tomorrow.

 

[Benandemu]

So, before I start to prize things apart that should be together!

The Red adjuster knob is a cap over a threaded bolt? Held in place with a washer??

ps. As you can see in the left side of the top picture, one of the mounts with the L shaped frame brace bracket has snapped in half. Have you a spare one of those please? The L shaped bracket is seized inside. A reason why I prefer the later grooved plastic version.

 

[hamster]

I've definitely got a spare one of these (you mean the back plate of the two that sits up against the brake boss?).

PM if interested. I'm away from home but could post at the weekend.

 

[Benandemu]

Hold the small thread on the inside of the lever with long nose pliers and turn the knob anti-clockwise. It will remove the male threaded barrel from the female barrel with the adjuster knob on. The adjuster knob should be carefully prized off with a small screwdriver. Then the female barrel will push through to the inside.

I'm off to the bike shop in a minute to visit their Magura spares box, but I don't think i'll find the adjuster threads. I've photographed what I can see so that others may arm themselves before going for the total strip down, plus I guess a few people will need to replace the threads as ham fisted individuals over tighten them.

I'll let you know about the snapped bracket.

 

[KevH]

Hi i have a pair of evos for sale, well i think they are the evo ones id have to check, they are black and silver in good working order.
£40.00 posted if you want them, how do i know if they are the evo ones? i got them from a guy on here but not sure who.

Gee

 

[Uncle Buck]

You need to get a grip - you've got WAAAAAY too many bikes there. That list needs to get shorter by at least a Palisades Trail or you'll become known as bentoomanybikes.



Nice work on the Maguras - I'll know what to do with my FILTHY Olympias now.

 

[Farmfield]

I renovated two Land Rover clutches - and they're hydralic... That - and the pic's in this thread - is why I prefer mechanical brakes - even when we're talking about such horrible modern things as discbrakes... From the bright side, you'll never complain about setting up canti's again...

 

[neilll]

Hi i have a pair of evos for sale, well i think they are the evo ones id have to check, they are black and silver in good working order.
£40.00 posted if you want them, how do i know if they are the evo ones? i got them from a guy on here but not sure who.

Gee

Evolutions have 'Evolution' cast into the mount, bolt together and use an elbow.
Evolution II's use no elbow and have a mounting frame as well as a booster.

see pix >>