Pinnacle iroko dropper fitting help

[ishaw]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18581811...cZAVmsbR2K&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thanks. The problem with the iroko frame is that it just has a circular, blanked hole in the frame (if I were to run a massively long length of cable and outer to add to the slack needed inside the seat tube, love that rattling around), so the linked to guides I don't think would work without drillium work on the frame and I'm not keen on that idea.

The pic posted earlier in the thread does show how it has been done on an iroko frame, I can't tell if they have the correct guides in the frame.

 

[clubby]

No dropper routing use derailleur like stops, they just wouldn’t work. The various grommets and guides you see are just that, to guide the cable through and stop rattling and rubbing. Different bikes use different methods and you just need the right fitting for your bike. My Canyon had small rubber grommets, my Whyte had a bigger one that took the gear outer as well, my Transitiin has firmer plastic blocks, my Merida has removable metal guides that screw into the frame, while my custom steel frame has brazed on oval guides.

You don’t need an overly long run of cable, just enough free length at the HT end to allow it to be pushed back through to allow the seatpost to be completely removed from the seat tube.

With the way you want to do it, how are you going to fit enough cable in the seat tube to allow the post to be pulled out?

Best way to look at it is to get your dropper and hold it on the outside of the frame at the depth it would be inserted and look where the cable attaches. Take the post about 2 inches above the seat tube to a position you’d need to fit/ remove the cable from the actuator. This is the slack you need.
On my set ups this means removing the lever from the clamp and feeding the cable back through. To fit the sestpost I simply pull the outer back through as I insert the post. When it’s all in position the outer is taut in the frame and doesn’t rattle.

Get some various lengths of outer and some masking tape. Tape out the routing you are thinking of and hopefully it will make sense why it’s not a good idea.

Could send some photos of my routings tomorrow if that would help make sense of what I’m trying to say?

 

[ishaw]

Thanks, I think I may be misinterpreted, I'm just thinking that in theory, if the guides/stops on the frame can work like they do with derailleur cables, a dropper run could work without being full outer. I do appreciate that in the case of most frames, it isn't going to work, and probably won't with mine, and running a full length outer is the way.

The one on my ti 29er runs via the left of the down tube, out at the bottom and into the seat tube, works fine.

I've another 29er that has removable metal guides which makes accessing the cable easy.

The pinnacle however just has a blanked circular hole on the right and an exit guide at the bottom right, and a seat tube entry guide.

I think I'm going to explore drilling out the front mech guide so it can take the full outer, I'm not going to run a front mech, but I'd prefer to do this with the guide out of the frame, is there a trick to removing it, I don't want to break it. I'd like to see what sort of hole is behind it, as while I don't like the long hose around the head tube look, maybe there is a guide that will fit the blanked hole, saving me the drilling and leaving the option of s front mech one day should the need arise.