Kona Questions, sizing, differences in era (up to 97), clearances etc.
- Thread starter Tommy27
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Probably, as long as the outside seat tube diameter is the same.
98 is 853, would this work?
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Can someone help me with stem length for an 18"
The Fisher has a 21.5" (546mm) top tube, with a 140mm stem, an 18" Kona Explosif a 23" (584mm) top tube, but one that slopes quite a bit more.
I'm guessing 100mm stem could feel a bit short, and what I'm buying will include an inline seatpost. I want to get a Syncros and since they don't come cheap, want to make I'm getting sizing right.
The Fisher has a 21.5" (546mm) top tube, with a 140mm stem, an 18" Kona Explosif a 23" (584mm) top tube, but one that slopes quite a bit more.
I'm guessing 100mm stem could feel a bit short, and what I'm buying will include an inline seatpost. I want to get a Syncros and since they don't come cheap, want to make I'm getting sizing right.
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Ignore the slope, that's a red herring. It effective length (so horizontal, not actual length).
Look in the size charts, they give an example for each year, remember the fork length too, that raises the front, altering the need for longer or shorter stems.
I think that the length of stem with be very much an individual preference, there is no one correct length for a particular frame size, it is just a starting point. I think that either you need a professional bike fit or use what you have and try different lengths to get the most comfortable for you. If you are going to be doing huge distances on this bike it is worth spending some time and money getting the fit right.
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Stems are cheap, someone may even have a bundle. Then when you decide, what feels nice with the frame and forks and position, look for the Syncros.
That fisher is about 1.5" shorter from what you say, than the Kona, but it depends how and from what point Fisher measured. (I don't know Fishers that well)
Some measure actuals from CTC along the horizontal, some measured from the edge of the weld/joint along the top etc.
A quick look at the 1990 Fisher catalogue and they measure effective top tube C2C as did Kona.
So they are the same measurement.
Just get a 120mm and go from there, it's a nice short length for the late 90s and incredibly short for the early 90s.
A quick look and Kona fitted a 120mm/6deg stem, which may be similar to Syncros 120mm Zero stems (they often sit higher than the simpler stems) and way a few spacers can raise it that 6deg or so.
I've lost track, did you get a frame?
What's that master build plan, or going with the flow and thoughts?
It's longer, actual top tube is about half inch shorter iirc (but that could be a normal RM, not the Kona, could check but it's cold and the ), but it doesn't matter as that's not what you should be comparing to on the Fisher..
That fisher is about 1.5" shorter from what you say, than the Kona, but it depends how and from what point Fisher measured. (I don't know Fishers that well)
Some measure actuals from CTC along the horizontal, some measured from the edge of the weld/joint along the top etc.
A quick look at the 1990 Fisher catalogue and they measure effective top tube C2C as did Kona.
So they are the same measurement.
Just get a 120mm and go from there, it's a nice short length for the late 90s and incredibly short for the early 90s.
A quick look and Kona fitted a 120mm/6deg stem, which may be similar to Syncros 120mm Zero stems (they often sit higher than the simpler stems) and way a few spacers can raise it that 6deg or so.
I've lost track, did you get a frame?
What's that master build plan, or going with the flow and thoughts?
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