Kona boffins- frame geometry and recommended size

[Woz]

Yep pretty much. I wouldn't say seat-tube is irrelavent, but top-tube is far more important for a good bike fit and how it will respond.

 

[We_are_Stevo]

Yep pretty much. I wouldn't say seat-tube is irrelavent, but top-tube is far more important for a good bike fit and how it will respond.

The bike 'fit' depends on how you want it to respond - a lot of people would find my long-stemmed bikes far too 'twitchy' for their liking, but after over 20 years riding my bikes this way I think I'm used to it...

 

[Anthony]

Yep pretty much. I wouldn't say seat-tube is irrelavent, but top-tube is far more important for a good bike fit and how it will respond.

The bike 'fit' depends on how you want it to respond - a lot of people would find my long-stemmed bikes far too 'twitchy' for their liking, but after over 20 years riding my bikes this way I think I'm used to it...

Long stems make bikes less twitchy. That's why they counteract steep head angles/short forks.

 

[parma_ham]

Just seen this :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280784486524?ss ... 1423.l2649

I'm going to ask the seller whether it is A-head or not and overall condition (cracks etc) bar the seat tube of course being stuck. Obviously I'm keen to ensure 100% it is 17 ". Were konas of this era just measured from above the BB to the bottom of the seat tube or another method? If someone can tell me so I can ask the seller to double check, that would be super.

So do you think the seat tube can come out with a beat of drill action and possibly a little heat or is it a lost cause? What about cutting a thread into the stuck seat tube and then threading a bolt into or something to enable one to pull it out :? ?

Thanks again for all your thoughts

Ben

 

[unkleGsif]

Kona's were measured c-t or centre to top.... that would be from the centre of the bottorm bracket, to the top of the seat tube

I would get as much information from the seller as possible. Get him to meatsure the center to top of the seat tube as well as the centre to centre of the seat tube. There should be 2 inches between them. Also get him to provide the top tube centre to centre and cross reference that with the other measurements he gives you with the info that is in the catalogue in the Gallery and archive ^^^^ Looks like a 1996, but would need some serious work putting into to get it right

Sod it... have a link
http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2...2_GALLERYSID=24290f1a0d20abe842fbdbf22af6afea

G

 

[parma_ham]

Do you think the colour of the bike on ebay looks more turqouise than the one in the brochure? If it is indeed a 1996 with 1" headset it's sadly no good for me. I'd like to be able to go 1"1/8th a-head.

Ben

 

[unkleGsif]

Neither are likely to be accurate representations of the actual colour of the frame.
One has been photographed, printed, stored in a dirty cupboard for 10 years, dug out, dusted, scanned then viewed through you computer screen.... the other is a 15 year old brochure

bdm... tshhhh


G

 

[parma_ham]

Fair point. Are you confident that it is '96 though and therefore only 1"?

 

[Jones]

Its 1" 1/8th headtube

 

[We_are_Stevo]

Confirm the center-to-top measurement (doesn't look like a 15" frame to me...) then pay what it takes to win it!

Don't drive the price up by bidding too early though - and the colour is the dull metallic tourquoise.

Post removal will be easy, simply cut a slot the length of the remains of the post with a sturdy hack saw blade then chisel out with a large flat-bladed screwdriver...