It's been 12 years now... (FSR content)

I took apart the "wiggling" rear. Those bushes are very worn. For example this is the main bolt out of that bushing near the bb:


In such a case even new press fit bushing sleeves wont help. Although I have a set..


Luckily one of my rear triangles is in perfect condition. So I just did a quick swap.
 
Love watching your progress. I use 130 psi in my rear shock. I have the psi to rider weight chart if you're interested.

I had a new set of bushings a couple of years ago. Before I put them in the bike, I took measurements of them all so someone can mill a new set when my current ones wear out.
 
Thias Crapworks (TM) proudly presents:
The latest invention right out of our infamous research and testing facility!

The Oil Stopsock!

Fits all oil stopping needs in various sizes and situations. Available in multiple colors and sizes. With or without perforation at the ends. Flavor of your choice: cheese, champignon, dead rat
Washable at 60 degrees
(Flavour might fade over time and is not covered by our 3 year guarantee).

Oil Stopsocks
Will stop you oil dripping onto you rims for some time ;)
 
Had a small envelope in my letterbox today. The new seals have arrived!


Had to try them out immediately. They seem to fit well but they have a very low height, compared to the old wiper seals


But they can be slided in quite deep and the old seals fit on top of them. :D


Mounted like this the forks keep their original looks. And they should be nicely sealed now.

As I don't want to waste fresh RS fork oil, I use recycled fork oil for testing.


When the fork proves to be sealed and working I will of course swap for fresh oil. :roll:
 
It's driving me mad. While I was building the bike, it was sunny and rather warm outside. And now that I would be ready to do my first test ride - storms, wind and rain! Yesterday my motor-scooter was "blown away" while I was closing the garage door. Side panel is broken. Damn. :facepalm:

But while I cant go outside to test the bike, I made a nice little discovery.
Some time last year I realized that I don't like to ride small flat pedals. Especially those XT-like pedals with different sides where one has to either mount cages or spin the pedal to the correct orientation all the time- they are driving me nuts. I need proper large brear-trap pedals. And noting else.
So I started to hunt the bay for those pedals and shot me a few. One pair I got very cheap (5 Euro including postage) had a BMX type of thread, I did not notice that until I tried to mount them on one of my bikes. I had them laying around on my desk since then. When I decided yesterday (boring, bad weather....) to service those rather ugly pedals I had mounted to the FSR, I had those pedals laying side by side. And I realized they were the same brand. And seemed to share a very similar looking axle:


:idea:

"Hey Ferb, I know what we're gonna do today"


Pedalpuzzle.

Aaaand it worked!


:mrgreen:
 
I've been able to ride the FSR from my parking to work (2km) and realized the Cane Creek dampener does not work as expected. It holds the air fine, but it sticks on the first few mm of travel and moves too easy for the rest oft the travel.
Gladly I found a very good thread on how to service that part over on mtbr. So I quickly copied the text to "our" wiki so it does not get lost. I'll decorate it with some pictures later. I am so grateful to that user "TeamTwentyFour" for writing this! I guess I'll have to register to mtbr forums and write thy guy a message.

Later I tried to take a closer look into my dampener and too some pics, too

This is the "beast"


First release the pressure and take the valve out:


Remove the two adjustment screws. (Manual says not to do that...) They turn rather harsh at the end of their thread. Don't worry. That is just those little o-rings pressing through the hole. It will get hard to get them back in, so I'll have to consider whether or not this was a good idea...


The main body lock ring should come off easily. It usually is only hand tightened.


Underneath there is a Teflon ring, holding a few seals. Just slide it off, together with the lock ring.
The rest of the shock can just be pulled apart.

On the pic above you can already see the defective o-ring inside the white Teflon part.

Aaand again - fire up the browser and order some more seals :roll:
Seems I'm the "drive to the hardware store once for every single screw" type of guy :facepalm:


The FSX forks did keep up well. No oil leakage to be seen anywhere any more. Phew! :cool:
 
I am so glad to hear for your forks! I also must admit that I am glad when some other things don't work out on your bike since you always do such nice tutorial :)
 

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