Is this a crack

If you buy that set I think the correct order should be:

Cleaner - Dye - Wait for penetration - Cleaner to wipe off dye - Wait to dry or wipe dry - Developer - Wait for bleed out

In industry they would have an established method that is proven to detect cracks. For example, 15 minutes to allow dye penetration.

If I recall correctly, the cleaner should only be applied to the cloth when removing the dye, If you spray it directly onto the crack there's a risk you could wash all the dye out of the crack, then it won't be detected when you apply the developer (white paint).

If you decide to buy it then you might get some specific guidance on the individual cans.
 
The rocol stuff is the same but will cost me upwards of 60 pounds. No thank you. Apparently we can't get the cheap stuff here.
Defence, Nuclear and Aerospace probably don't care about that much, and they buy in bulk anyway. Where I used to work they were buying hundreds of cans at a time.
 
Defence, Nuclear and Aerospace probably don't care about that much, and they buy in bulk anyway. Where I used to work they were buying hundreds of cans at a time.
Well I wasn't so worried about the financial outlay of the defence nuclear and aerospace industries as much as how 60 quid could have bought me more bike tat. :D
 
So what's the verdict? Shall I buy this 68 pound spray to test or just ride and be merry?

No. Just ride it. Put a pen mark or scratch the paint to mark the end of where the suspected crack ends.

Check it after every ride for any propagation.

I've had two frames crack in the BB area on the NDS too (one Ti which had a bad repair weld and a lightweigh alloy frame).

Believe me, you will feel something strange under the pedal stroke (especially out of the saddle) or the bike doesn't want to track properly.

Luckily there are enough tubes on a bike to keep it together long enough to get home at snails pace.
 
Back
Top