Help with maintenance for GT Bravado

Can anyone suggest how I could get that stuck one off without the tool?

I got a great suggestion elsewhere that I can modify those existing nuts and screws rather than buying new ones. That will save me a few bob and days waiting for stuff to arrive if I just hack the existing ones to size.

Didn't even think of that but want this stuck one out. I could tighten the 4/5 would that be secure enough? I would prefer all 5 secured again though of course.

The improvised tools I was using to hold in place were working fine, it is just I didn't know I was over tightening at the time.
 
Sugino cranks sometimes have a threaded bolt behind the crank arm that doesn't require the slotted female bit.

You could just buy some shorter bolts designed for single rings or run a bash/trouser guard with your existing bolts.
 
Sugino cranks sometimes have a threaded bolt behind the crank arm that doesn't require the slotted female bit.
I think that is what it is.

I was able to get it off with the help of this video. I managed the same job with one of the tools that was in the bike bits box. Don't even know what the tool was but it worked by the same method as in the video.

I got the one behind the crank off to compare and noticed that one is a few mm smaller than the others so replacing the others with ones that length I am thinking.

Other than the old chainring I was thinking what else I could use to diy some spacers but couldn't think of anything to hand. There are a couple of boxes of washers in the garage but was unable to find suitable ones to plug the gap of the extra space for all those nuts.

So if there are no other suggestions of DIYing the spacer I will just buy the spacers.

Can you put a cassette on without the specific tools? I saw a chap do it rather effectively earlier with just a pair of needlenose pliers in the ring and an old chain wrapped around the cassete and one end jammed under the chair leg. Will the pliers, or other method, do the trick without damaging components?

I am loath to buy tools which can be hacked as I was able to do today with the slotted nuts, after I got over the learning curve.

Also what are some other available fastening on the back side to avoid the BS with the ones requiring this special tool in future.

Might get the travative double allen key ones to do away with the need for that awfully conceived slot nut crap!
 
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Personally I wouldn't use spacers to plug the chainring bolt gap. You can get a set of the right sized bolts for not much money.

I'd also not bodge tools for the cassette locking. You screw the teeth, you aren't getting it off easily. You could use a pin spanner but that's a tool in itself. A proper tool won't cost a lot, if you buy one of the cheap tool kits, you'll get cheap tools but at least they are the right tools.
 
Personally I wouldn't use spacers to plug the chainring bolt gap. You can get a set of the right sized bolts for not much money.

I'd also not bodge tools for the cassette locking. You screw the teeth, you aren't getting it off easily. You could use a pin spanner but that's a tool in itself. A proper tool won't cost a lot, if you buy one of the cheap tool kits, you'll get cheap tools but at least they are the right tools.

I am actually going to put the big ring back on to have a working bike again.

I have also decided against going for large back sprockets, which is what spurred the idea to go 2x in the first place since I was informed that 3x is a no go with big back sprockets. Since I do not sure the big one anyway this was an easy choice.

However, as I thought about it more if the back sprocket goes too big then I am 'wasting' my granny ring, which is the star feature of this bike. I am settling on 36 which still gives me really low but is within the maximum estimated bounds of my derailleur without modification.

All I felt that was missing was a couple more gears on the low end both for the middle and granny and I think this should do the trick. I will then get 32 and 36 gearing on a 9 speed cassette and keep the 3x or remove it if I feel like it. It can stay there though as it doesn't really weigh much and the bike is setup for it so might as well leave it on.

There is little benefit to taking it off except for aesthetics. It is so light that weight is no justification. I cannot realistically see me using that big ring but at the same time the bike is setup for it so will certainly leave it as is while I ride some more.
 
Got most things working nicely now.

Got the chainrings back on.

Also fixed the brakes. The issue was that there is a thicker spacer and a thinner spacer, one for each side of the brake pad attachments.

I noticed that the thicker spacers were on the inside next to the block and the thinner on the outside, by the nut. I was aware that the closer the levers are to the wheel, the more tension there would be, so I swapped the thick on the inside for the thin on the inside.

Worked like a charm to give more tension to allow the brakes to spring back out more when connected.
 
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