retrobiker273891
Retro Guru
Everything said above is where I'd go with headset and freehub, though headsets aren't expensive, you could even just buy the top half. What headset is it! I've a bag of spare headset parts and may have something.
Thanks for the detailed reply.
No idea what it is. I only have what is in the description of that ad and the seller does not seem to be online too often to get that information. I have tried looking at the text on it and it says Aheadset. There is some smaller writing which I have been unable to make out except "usa".
Sticky freehub pawls sound like the culprit. When you stop pedalling does it take a bit for the freehub to frewgeel, causing the chain to initially go slack. The opposite when pedalling would be it doesn't engage initially causing a jump sensation at the cranks.
Yes it is the second case. Can't say I have noticed the chain going slack initially but I wouldn't know actually as have only been riding so cannot look to see that. The second case you mention though sounds just like what is happening.
Brakes in my mind could be 1 of 2, or even both things I have in mind. Sounds like there is not a lot of spring tension in the callipers. This could be caused by the pin being located in the slickest position on the frame and forks. There are usually 3 holes to locate the pin into, all affect the spring tension and ultimately the position of the pad relative to the rim. It could also be the spring tension screws being screwed out and not putting enough tension in the spring. This results in the callipers not springing back very far and the brake feeling sloppy and loose cables, meaning you pull the lever and not a lot happens. Try screwing in the spring tension screws. One on each brake. This will spring the brakes back and keep tension in the cable. Remember, when you do this you'll want to adjust each side so that each brake springs back and equal amount or one side might spring back a lot and away from the rim while the other side doesn't, leaving it close to or still against the rim. Each side will pull the other unless you tension them evenly.
The locating pins and holes they locate in action as a pre-tensioner or starting point for the tension so you might need to move the pins to a hole that starts with more tension to begin with if adjusting the screws has little effect.
Hope this helps
Yes when I was playing around with them yesterday I realized these parallel push brakes are just the same workings as normal V-brakes, overall, except how they come to touch the rims, which I am already familiar with.
As such I was already familiar with the 3 fastening pins. I did try that but found with these type of brakes I was only able to put the lever on the middle pin anyway since if I did it on a different one it would mean they would not come down parallel to the rim. So could not see a way around that.
While they do spring back maybe they are not doing so with the force that they should. I don't have any reference for how springy they should be. They are all springing back ok when the wires are not connected but I don't know if that is subpar to what properly working brakes should be.
As for the screws, yes, I did try screwing them in all the way. As mentioned above I think that got the front ones working somewhat better but didn't make a noticeable different on the back.
What you say about slack line is exactly the issue. I notice that the wires which is running along the frame to the levers is super slack and even clatters about it's so slack when going over bumpy ground. So the indicates lack of spring in the levers? Can it be fixed with taking them apart or are they done for?