Help with maintenance for GT Bravado

[retrobiker273891]

Everything said above is where I'd go with headset and freehub, though headsets aren't expensive, you could even just buy the top half. What headset is it! I've a bag of spare headset parts and may have something.

Thanks for the detailed reply.

No idea what it is. I only have what is in the description of that ad and the seller does not seem to be online too often to get that information. I have tried looking at the text on it and it says Aheadset. There is some smaller writing which I have been unable to make out except "usa".

Sticky freehub pawls sound like the culprit. When you stop pedalling does it take a bit for the freehub to frewgeel, causing the chain to initially go slack. The opposite when pedalling would be it doesn't engage initially causing a jump sensation at the cranks.

Yes it is the second case. Can't say I have noticed the chain going slack initially but I wouldn't know actually as have only been riding so cannot look to see that. The second case you mention though sounds just like what is happening.

Brakes in my mind could be 1 of 2, or even both things I have in mind. Sounds like there is not a lot of spring tension in the callipers. This could be caused by the pin being located in the slickest position on the frame and forks. There are usually 3 holes to locate the pin into, all affect the spring tension and ultimately the position of the pad relative to the rim. It could also be the spring tension screws being screwed out and not putting enough tension in the spring. This results in the callipers not springing back very far and the brake feeling sloppy and loose cables, meaning you pull the lever and not a lot happens. Try screwing in the spring tension screws. One on each brake. This will spring the brakes back and keep tension in the cable. Remember, when you do this you'll want to adjust each side so that each brake springs back and equal amount or one side might spring back a lot and away from the rim while the other side doesn't, leaving it close to or still against the rim. Each side will pull the other unless you tension them evenly.

The locating pins and holes they locate in action as a pre-tensioner or starting point for the tension so you might need to move the pins to a hole that starts with more tension to begin with if adjusting the screws has little effect.

Hope this helps

Yes when I was playing around with them yesterday I realized these parallel push brakes are just the same workings as normal V-brakes, overall, except how they come to touch the rims, which I am already familiar with.

As such I was already familiar with the 3 fastening pins. I did try that but found with these type of brakes I was only able to put the lever on the middle pin anyway since if I did it on a different one it would mean they would not come down parallel to the rim. So could not see a way around that.

While they do spring back maybe they are not doing so with the force that they should. I don't have any reference for how springy they should be. They are all springing back ok when the wires are not connected but I don't know if that is subpar to what properly working brakes should be.

As for the screws, yes, I did try screwing them in all the way. As mentioned above I think that got the front ones working somewhat better but didn't make a noticeable different on the back.

What you say about slack line is exactly the issue. I notice that the wires which is running along the frame to the levers is super slack and even clatters about it's so slack when going over bumpy ground. So the indicates lack of spring in the levers? Can it be fixed with taking them apart or are they done for?

 

[retrobiker273891]

I will add this here rather than make a new thread...

Can I make the Sugino Impel (I guess it is impel but definitely says sugino on the inner crank) triple into a double?

I found a couple of threads online where people wanted to do the same but they wanted to get rid of the granny from what I read whereas I would like to remove the largest ring since I do not find myself using it. Not only will it save a little weight, negligible, but mainly because I have been told if I want bigger sprockets on the back then I would have to remove that and make it 2x as the chain, and other components would break if using the big ring.

I am not clear on the design but is the outer ring integral in keeping the other two in place or can it be removed simply without affecting the rest?

 

[Takingabreak]

You could leave it on but adjust the front mech limit stops so that you can't accidentally shift up to the big ring.

 

[Totoro]

Can't help with the maintenance but that is one good looking bike.

 

[mk one]

Looking at the pictures in the original listing and your description of the brakes, especially the rear, it would appear the cables is too slack. The solution is to undo the bolt holding the cable at the rear brake arm, pull the slack through and re-tighten the bolt, most likely to where the kink is in the cable, looks like it has slipped through. Should be no slack in the cable.

Being able to see the parts in question helps with problem solving, so pictures are always useful

 

[retrobiker273891]

You could leave it on but adjust the front mech limit stops so that you can't accidentally shift up to the big ring.

Well I thought I would see what it looked like taking it off and I have buggered myself as I have a none working bike now.

I got the nuts off no problem, in hindsight I realized I got lucky here because they were probably just ceased because I had no tool to hold the slotted nuts in place.

I thought it would be a simple matter to screw the nuts and bolts back but not so! I didn't realize that the nuts only screw in a certain amount then just stop and with 1 less chainring that means there is a gap. What is weird is that the first one tightening fully leaving no gap. This must have given me the false impression the rest would be the same.

As such I overtightened one nut and was confused why it was not tightening. Thinking it was just because I wasn't getting purchase on the slotted nut I kept on going when I was actually overtightening.

Took me a long time to twig that.

I still don't understand why one nut went through fine though. It went beyond the full length of the slot nut and through. I checked and the nut is the same length as the others. The only thing I can think of is that the slotted nut must be somewhat shorter than the others. This is the one that is behind the crank, if that is relevant.

I was looking all around and there doesn't seem to be a difference in the machining of that hole or thickness and such.

After trying without any joy for probably a couple of hours, with anything I could think of to try and grab it I thought it best to quit while I was behind before I stripped the slotted nut landing me in more trouble that might require the old heavy handed approach of drilling out the nut.

So unless someone has a better idea of what DIY tool I will admit defeat and buy the tool. It is annoying because it is such a simple thing I feel it would be easy to find something in lieu of the proper tool but the things I tried would not get proper purchase or if they did would bend or mash the sides a bit in the case of the mole grips! That was when I got to thinking time to call it quits!

So I guess it is a case of buying some spacers and the proper tool and waiting to fight the battle another day.

 

[Takingabreak]

The joys of tinkering, however, tinkering brings knowledge. Looking forward to the next tinkering instalment, maybe replace the headset next?

 

[retrobiker273891]

The joys ot tinkering, however, tinkering brings knowledge. Looking forward to the next tinkering instalment, maybe replace the headset next?

Indeed, people keep chastising me on a none tinkering forum saying I am wasting so much time over analyzing and doing unnecessary stuff when I could just have bought a new bike and been riding it for several months.

Totally misses the point that tinkering is half the fun!

 

[Takingabreak]

You would benefit from some dedicated bike tools though. The things you need to fix on this bike all need specific tools. It is possible to improvise at times but not always. You will need a chain tool, a crank puller, a chain whip, a cassette locknut tool, probably a tool to remove the bottom bracket. For the headset, you maybe can improvise but the correct tools make removal and refitting much easier.

 

[retrobiker273891]

You would benefit from some dedicated bike tools though. The things you need to fix on this bike all need specific tools. It is possible to improvise at times but not always. You will need a chain tool, a crank puller, a chain whip, a cassette locknut tool, probably a tool to remove the bottom bracket. For the headset, you maybe can improvise but the correct tools make removal and refitting much easier.

Any all in one toolboxes of the things you mentioned for decent price? Will take ages to lookup each individual one for all the different makes and options and such. I wanna get back to my tinkering asap!