Help! Newbie needs some help with an Orange P7 *Pics Added!*

[Boromedic]

Thanks for the help so far guys, just a few more questions!!

Unfortunately I can't work on it till Tuesday (the joys of night shifts!) but aside from the shifter issue, which hopefully I can fix, everything else seems to work fine. The crank runs smooth, and the front derailleur, no slippage on the front cogs either. So I'm thinking rather than start replacing parts and costing myself a bomb, I'll strip the frame down and clean it all up, clean all the parts and then rebuild it as is and see how it goes.

So with that in mind, how do I remove the chain and can I re-use it or shall I buy a new one, if so which chain?

Do I need to remove the bottom bracket to clean the whole bike properly or just leave it in there? If I have to remove it, do I need a special tool?

Also aside from a set of ring spanners, allen keys, eagle beaks and wire cutters, are there any other tools you'd recommend?

Thanks guys!!

Al

 

[raymondluxuryyacht]

Great bike and in very original condition. I've got a 1994 made frame which would have been 95 model year but with slightly different decals, but had the same stx-rc groupset as yours. Yours is 95 built so may have been late '95 model year or early '96 model year.

These frames were lacquered on top of the nickel plating (at least mine was), but I can't be 100% sure from the pics if yours is or not. I would guess it is lacquered over the nickel plate from your description.

It actually looks in pretty good nick, so I'd start with a strip down and clean and see how it comes up. If it still looks a bit rough, you may be able to polish it up ...which if it has lacquer may be best to remove lacquer first. The lacquer frequently flaked on these. On mine it had, and I'd lost some of the nickel finish too so had go for a repaint. I guess you could take lacquer off with nitromors, then clean & polish up the nickel plate with brasso or maybe autosol. The nickel plate on these does sometimes flake too...but my impression is yours seems generally to be ok.

To remove the chain...
Get a chain link extractor tool (e.g. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=7962). Change into smallest cog at the rear and smallest at the front. Now use the tool to push one of the pins in the chain out. This breaks the chain (though can be rejoined with a special pin after if needed). You can then simply feed the chain out of the rear mech & wheel. Probably best get a new chain. This one would be fine I think-> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=42377

Regarding the bottom bracket, if with the chain removed you can turn the cranks by hand and it feels smooth and not gritty, and it has no side to side wobble then there is no particular reason to remove it. However if you leave it in place, be careful when cleaning not to get degreaser, soap or chemicals on it. If you do need to remove and replace it then you will need a crank extractor tool to pull the cranks off the bottom bracket axle and the proper bottom bracket tool to remove the bottom bracket. Probably worth getting a shop to do this in case the bottom bracket is really stuck in the frame, but tools are available. Crank extractor (you need the one for square taper axles)-> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=32400 I think this is the correct tool to remove your bottom bracket-> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... odelID=689

As others have said, the most likely reason for the duff gear change you experienced is the grease in the lever has solidified. Could also be that your cables may need replacing. If you have proper bike strength wire cutters then you shouldn't have any problem with doing cable replacement, but electrical wire cutters usually aren't strong enough.

Re: other tools I'd recommend a headset spanner so you can regrease and adjust the headset if needed (bearing that the fork rotates on). I think this is the one you need (but maybe able to get cheaper versions from other brands)-> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=78653
Whilst an adjustable wrench is enough to undo and also tighten the top locknut of the headset, when tightening back up you need quite a thin width wrench like this so you can tighten then hold it still whilst tightening down the top most nut onto it with an adjustable wrench.
By the way your handlebar stem is "sk8" your handlebars are probably the Orange "hot rod".

Happy to talk more via pm if it helps, but I'm away to bed now.

 

[raymondluxuryyacht]

P.s. I doubt your frame needs re-plating but be aware that re-plating is a very expensive option.... Hence why I went for paint on mine instead.

 

[Boromedic]

Hi Raymondluxuryyacht,

Thanks for all the help and advice, aswell as pointers for tools I'll need I'm very grateful.

I shall get to stripping it this week hopefully, and cleaning it up to see how bad the lacquer really is. The plating below does look ok, so we'll see!!

I will of course keep you all posted on how things progress!!

Cheers,

Al

 

[Boromedic]

Hi again,

right had some time today to start stripping the bike down to clean it all up, the frame has quite a few chips in the lacquer so it's gotta come off. I'll use Dossa's foil method I think, seemed to work a treat so hopefully I'll be able to get similar results!

I've posted more pictures below so I could pick some more brains, if that's ok, (The stem has seized in the steerer so I've slowly been steeping it in WD40 to see if I can free it up and loosen the quill, if you're wondering why its still attached!). In order to service these STX RC shifters, is there any way to separate the shifter from the brake handle so I can get to the inner workings? The pic below shows an Allen bolt on the bottom and 2 small screws on the top. Does unscrewing any of these allow access to the mechanism without springs and washers popping out everywhere? (Thought I'd ask before I messed with them!)

Another couple of quick questions; what's the best way to remove the handle bar grips? Also does anyone know the size of the Allen key needed to undo the bolt in the middle of the cranks?

Cheers guys,

Al

P.s. Put up a few pics of the frame too, so you can see the condition of it. Its covered in loads of clear stickers to protect it if your wondering what all the rectangles are!!

 

[Boromedic]

Hi, sorry one more question!!

I've been doing some research on chains after checking out the one that was recommended above (thanks again raymondluxuryyacht) and a lot of the blurb on the t'internet says you shouldn't use a Shimano HG chain on IG cranks, dérailleurs or cassettes. My bike has an IG crank, an IG compatible derailleur and a HG 7 speed cassette, so which chain should I buy?!!!

Thanks all ;-)

 

[cce]

shimano chains are rubbish. get a SRAM or KMC. much less likely to snap

 

[marc two tone]

fairly true. shimano chains either work forever or a few rides. in my experience anyway.

sram 850/870 have me confident, you get the fast-join link and never let me down.

grips...tease a flat screwdriver/pick/your favourite knitting needle carefully down without forcing too much. take your WD or what have you with nozzle and blast abit down.then massage it in with your hand as though you are riding the bike. then twist and pull, that should be it. if not repeat until they are removed.if anything, you will be able to work the flat driver/pick further in.

quill....raise the bolt out(if it turns) around 10-15 millimetres whilst still in the quill wedge. take a piece of wood, mallet, something fairly blunt and hit top of bolt where allen key slots in and that should be that, all will loosen up from there.

shifters...keep up the advice on spraying into crevices for now until you get a good result. i've read thread after thread based on rapid fire re-assembly

 

[Boromedic]

Hi guys, thanks for the help its much appreciated.

Unfortunately I've already ordered a Shimano chain, but I suppose I could send it back if required!

As for the stem, I picked up some 3 in 1 penetrating oil and it worked a charm, the bolt wouldn't turn at all but 30 mins soak today and off it came. Its surprisingly well greased but the bolt had seized in the end of the quill. Now the pedals, they took some doing but finally relented after penetrating oil and boiling water so just the cranks to get off but I'm waiting for a tool for that. The 3 in 1 sorted the grips too, along with a bamboo skewer!!

The shifters responded well to the penetrating oil, only thing now is do I need to re-lube them or will the old grease still work along with the 3 in 1?

Finally cleaning up most parts, ready for a re-build soon. Once the frame is clean I'll see how bad it is and decide whether to strip the lacquer as per Dossa's foil method. I'm wary of stripping it unnecessarily and needing to get it re-lacquered as thats gonna cost me more dollar! Thinking about that, can anyone recommend anywhere in the East Mids that does a great job with re-sprays?

Cheers again guys!

Al

 

[Boromedic]

Right, having stripped most of the bike bar the headset, I have an issue with the crankset, the middle ring has a few gouges out of it (maybe where the chain has snagged), I assume I'm gonna have to replace it or risk breaking a new chain? Any ideas on where I can buy an IG32 Shimano chain ring, or any suggestions on other options welcome!!

The frame appears reasonable although there are areas where the lacquer is really pitted and the frame rusting, so I've decided to strip it like I said above!

Thanks guys!