Think you will struggle. A modernish road compact drop bar adds about 8cm of drop, a dirt drop less so, but it's still a drop. Finding the right stem is probably the biggest headache in these conversions.
Has anyone built a Gravel bike using a retro frame
- Thread starter bjellys
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Think you will struggle. A modernish road compact drop bar adds about 8cm of drop, a dirt drop less so, but it's still a drop. Finding the right stem is probably the biggest headache in these conversions.
Right, so as someone with a decent accumulation of spare parts, and, perhaps, even an unused frame and fork, or two, I'm thinking the end of summer might be a nice time to dip my toe into a little parts bin special, dirt drop build.
But I have a few questions I'm hoping some of you might be able to answer:
1. What are some general frame characteristics (compared to, say, a person's normal preferences) I should be looking out for as the ideal candidate to build one around? Do I want a shorter top tube); relaxed or more aggressive geometry; do I want a frame slightly smaller than usual, or slightly bigger? Or what I would usually go for?
Would a Bontrager OR a size too small for me be workable, is what I'm getting at?!
2. I know something like a Salsa P10 is ideal, but can I get away with something a little less steep, if I'm able to raise it up a little? I only ask because I recently acquired a nice, steep and cheap Salsa stem. And although it's not a P10, I have a feeling it might just work well-enough to at least see what the vibe is like riding one of these.
3. Gearing/Braking. Do I try 2x9? Do I just stick a regular old XT group on there and run that with barcons? Do I dare try to find shifter mounts for all those $$$, that will allow me to run thumbies? Should I stick a bunch of old DuraAce on there? Lever recommendations that won't look out of place or break (brake!) the bank?
5. Do I just sack it all off and focus my time and money on a dedicated cross bike instead?
I don't, and never have, ridden drop bars or road bikes, so I'm really starting from scratch here. The only thing I know for sure is that I want to make sure the drops are positioned as close to level with the saddle as possible. But as I already struggle getting this to happen on my bikes with flat bars, I'm sure it's going to be more of a case of close-enough than nailed-it!
Each to their own but my preference is:
1 & 2. Larger frame with shorter top tube than normal, and/or shorter and taller stem than normal, because the position of the brake lever hoods on the drop bar wants to be roughly where the brake levers would be on a flat bar or a bit higher (so you can use the drops easily as well), especially if you're using...
3. Bar cons plus standard road bike brake levers for cantilever or U brakes or Tektro RL520s (I think) with V brakes. With mountain bike running gear. I've never used brifters and they may be better, I just don't know. I like simple stuff in fraction mode. I understand brifters need to run with road front derailleur and can use MTB rear up to 9 speed or so. Something like that.
5. I think 26" MTBs with drop bars are great, so recommend giving it a go!
You'll have seen this one already but for anyone who hasn't... inspiration:
https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/the-unofficially-cool-mtb-drop-bar-thread.94356/
Yep. That looks a good start.
Probably will be a bit close for Mini-Vs with the wheel change, so you may be forced to go with cantis. Tektro did a rear canti hanger that uses the seat-bolt clamp, looks like it could work here. You could fit the Claris 2 x 8 STIs, swap out the 9 speed cassette for the Claris 8 speed, remove the granny ring and that would be it. The LX FD may require some tweaks, but worth trying since it would be better than the Claris FD.
Drivetrain wise, this year I've ditched the trusty old 9x3 in favour of the awesome 9x1 on my road bike. Building the same for the gravel now. Who needs more gears anyway?! No fannying about with front mech & a slight weight benefit.
Interestingly enough, my climbing has actually improved once I've ditched the gears.
For my monster cross that I've posted earlier I used a too-small a frame. Unfortunately, that meant setting up a limp-dick set up up front. I used an adjustable stem that kept working itself loose.
I am now looking at that frameset and starting to get an itch to build it up again, but the frame is really a bit too small for me.
Interestingly enough, my climbing has actually improved once I've ditched the gears.
For my monster cross that I've posted earlier I used a too-small a frame. Unfortunately, that meant setting up a limp-dick set up up front. I used an adjustable stem that kept working itself loose.
I am now looking at that frameset and starting to get an itch to build it up again, but the frame is really a bit too small for me.
Mickeyspinn
rBotM Winner
Lovely
Mini-Vs aren't going to work, both the straddle wire and brake shoes are too low to fit those wheels. So definitely need cantis. Previous experience with these tiny frames where the rear triangle/seatstays are so shallow is that my heel would hit my Tektro canti on the rear as it sticks out quite a ways from the frame horizontally. So I've got a set of these to order which should be more flush with the frame and hopefully avoid the shoe interference (thanks @sunympholepsy for the thread which I stumbled upon looking for hangers!)
Another tiny frame, sloping top tube issue is the lack of space between seatpost clamp and wheel to fit the yoke and wire so I've opted for the tiny Raleigh hanger instead of the longer Tektro one.
I'm trying to predict what other bits I might need from SJS as they are so good for these parts and would be nice to get it all in one go rather than pay shipping each time. Maybe worth getting a bigger chainring now too while I'm looking as 42t probably won't do it.
^ There will be some trial and error, but that looks well thought out. For the front cable hanger, I would recommend a fork mounted one rather than a headset mounted one.
Just noticed that the frame is for a down pull FD meaning you can easily switch to the Claris FD
MTB mechs are designed around 42T / 44T. When it get's to 46 / 48T it makes more sense to go for a Road mech. Again, no magic formula, just trial and error with the frame you have.
Just noticed that the frame is for a down pull FD meaning you can easily switch to the Claris FD
MTB mechs are designed around 42T / 44T. When it get's to 46 / 48T it makes more sense to go for a Road mech. Again, no magic formula, just trial and error with the frame you have.
I've just bought one of these from SJSC. https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brakes/tektro-power-hanger-brake-enhancer-for-cantilever-brakes/. Not fitted it yet but could it help address the space issue?
