CX expectations

Re:

I could hang out with this guy (OK let's say he wasn't killing himself) on a 4 hours real MTB ride on my Swisscross. Capable enough?
 

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The History Man":5dty8uz4 said:
..... Brain saying road bike, speed saying road bike ish, trail saying I shouldn't be doing this.....

Sounds about right :cool:

When you get your position sorted and put lower gearing on, then you may even wonder why have mountain
bikes at all. On my last ride I went up a fairly technical long single track section through a forest to be greeted by two
middle aged mountain bikers on full suspension at the top psyching themselves up for the descent. The look
on their faces seeing a skinny tubed full rigid steel road bike with skinny tyres and canti-brakes coming up was
priceless - one commented "impressive" as I rode over the crest and started my descent.
 
I have 2 CX bikes, plus a couple of 29er MTBs so pretty familiar with the pros/cons of each. Put simply, if I want to go the fastest from A to B cross-country, I ride a CX bike - it's only really technical downhills that holds you back. I passed a group of MTB riders grinding their way up the Quantocks - the look on their faces as I passed them uphill on singletrack. Rode the inaugural Dorset Gravel Dash last weekend - 7 out of 10 bikes in the top-10 were CX despite the hub-deep mud and water in places.
 
I concur. The only time it was uncomfortable was hitting potholes on a downhill in the brakes. Wrists really felt it. The new gearing and stem have sorted the issues and made this thing a pleasure to ride. As has been said, way better than the rider. Brakes are a little lacking with my bulk but as long as you plan ahead or don't mind the odd RTA (hit 40mph, must try harder) it's all good. Popped out for a gentle 16 miles and 2000ft of mixed road and common with a bit of the HONC trails thrown in.

Try one, you'll love it.

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I really shouldn't be here!

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A Certain Ratio
 
Re:

There is one other burning issue that I do need urgent advice on concerning the riding.











Peak or no peak? ;)
 
Looks like you've got the shifters way too far round the bend, there is meant (by design) to be an almost flat transition between the top of the bar and the hood. Not that bloody great scoop you've got.

That'll probably shorten the effective reach by an inch or so. And then push the saddle back a bit. Might help you get some weight off your wrists. Unless the is a specific reason that you've got it like that.

And no peak, if you can use a peak on a cx or race bike, you aren't trying hard enough ;)
 
Saddle is standard position (forward) on everything I ride. So that won't move but having looked at cx images on google take your point re shifters. Will have a fiddle. Is it old stylie bracket screws? Or something under the hoods?

The wrist thing was only on a fast downhill on the brakes. Can live with that.
 
Pretty sure the will be a 5mm hex socket buried down the outside of each shifter, but I've not had that particular generation/model shifter myself.

And any reason for slamming the saddle forwards, or just one of those things you do?
 
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