Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling hard

[ibbz]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

seeing as its got a new chain, cassette and cranks, it definitely sounds like the freehub imo
replacement springs and pawls are in order i'd say, if you're wanting to keep the hub, if not you can usually pick up wheels/hubs on here pretty cheap

EDIT: what hub is it?

The Hub is LX, which I bought from a seller here (on Mavic 221)

shimano are notorious for the free hubs going, if i remember rightly they only use a 2 pawl system
my xt recently started letting go too.

The bike has just been finished and ridden now, this is how the seller described the wheels;
The hub is LX M563 on Mavic 221 rims.
I bought the wheels from trek_y back in November last year (2012)

This is the sale thread;
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=231596
This is how the wheels have been described;
Wheels - Deore LX M563 black hubs, Mavic 221UB rims, DT spokes - hubs nice and smooth, no dings or wobbles, come with Shimano classic chrome skewers. £55. Or £65 with Specialised Nimbus 1.5 semi slicks, tubes and 8 speed cassette as shown.

All I did was change the cassette to a 9 speed one and put new set of Continental's on.

And they do sound nice! But as you said, freehub.

I'll see what i can do, (as listed above re. chainline, chain length BB size) if no luck, i will change the freehub

 

[Radar]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

I had exactly the same problem with a road bike a year or so back. I'd just put a new chain on. I put new pawls in the freehub (Mavic Aksium), shortened the chain. Worked fine on the workstand but when ridden, felt like the cassette was slipping in smaller cogs. Solution - new chain rings. Chain rinhgs were worn. Meshed well with old chain. But slipped when torque applied to new chain.

 

[gtRTSdh]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

I really don't beleive that too long a chain will cause this issue, especially not in the middle ring.

You said that you have changed from 8sp to 9sp cassette, are you definitely using a 9sp chain? They are narrower than 8sp chains.

 

[ibbz]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

I really don't beleive that too long a chain will cause this issue, especially not in the middle ring.

You said that you have changed from 8sp to 9sp cassette, are you definitely using a 9sp chain? They are narrower than 8sp chains.

Yes definitely a 9 speed chain.
I'm going to change the rear mech and the cassette regardless
I don't like the rear mech it's far too long

I need to know what Bb spindle length goes with these cranks

 

[Pierre]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

It looks like you've routed the cable over the top of the clamp bolt on the rear derailleur. It's designed to be routed round the underside of the bolt - this will make a small difference to the leverage of the derailleur and therefore the indexing; one end of the cassette may well index (go into gear) fine, but the other end will not, because the derailleur will be pulled too far over, so will jump between gears especially under load.

Also, and I know this is a silly question, but I couldn't find the answer anywhere in your text - you say you swapped the 8-speed cassette for a 9-speed one - are you using 9-speed shifters? If not, no amount of adjustment is going to get your indexing right!

HTH.

 

[gtRTSdh]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

It looks like you've routed the cable over the top of the clamp bolt on the rear derailleur. It's designed to be routed round the underside of the bolt

It looks like a rapid rise rear mech, is it? if it is pressing the thumb shifter makes the gear harder (smaller cassette sprocket), I'd be interested in taking it off your hands.

And regarding the above, if it's rapid rise the cable is the right side of the bolt, do you agree Pierre?

 

[ibbz]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

It looks like you've routed the cable over the top of the clamp bolt on the rear derailleur. It's designed to be routed round the underside of the bolt - this will make a small difference to the leverage of the derailleur and therefore the indexing; one end of the cassette may well index (go into gear) fine, but the other end will not, because the derailleur will be pulled too far over, so will jump between gears especially under load.

Also, and I know this is a silly question, but I couldn't find the answer anywhere in your text - you say you swapped the 8-speed cassette for a 9-speed one - are you using 9-speed shifters? If not, no amount of adjustment is going to get your indexing right!

HTH.

Thanks man, can you perhaps illustrate more what you men bout underside of clmp bolt?
Btw the shifters are LX 9speed shifters matching the mech - they're the ones where you flip the actual brake lever to shift

 

[ibbz]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

It looks like you've routed the cable over the top of the clamp bolt on the rear derailleur. It's designed to be routed round the underside of the bolt

It looks like a rapid rise rear mech, is it? if it is pressing the thumb shifter makes the gear harder (smaller cassette sprocket), I'd be interested in taking it off your hands.

And regarding the above, if it's rapid rise the cable is the right side of the bolt, do you agree Pierre?

I think it's one of those mechs which at default and with no cable are extended
It's rapid rise
And has the strange lever shifter combos as I explained moving the brake lever changes gear

 

[ibbz]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

Just read this
http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shift ... 68357.html

I think the cassette needs replacing prrhaps
Maybe a problem with setti g up as mentioned the rapid rise mech

 

[Anthony]

Re: Cranks and chain slip when applying torque pedalling har

I wouldn't change the rear mech. There's no reason whatever why that one shouldn't work, and there's no way you need a medium-cage mech. Your chain looks dry. You wouldn't be the first person (you would come after me for one) to think that the grease that the new chain came in might act as a lubricant. It absolutely won't - a new chain needs oil on every roller. Your description does sound quite like the chain slipping off the chainrings, which it would do if not well-oiled. You should be able to feel (and hear) the difference between that and the freehub slipping though. Does it sound like a chain slipping off and reengaging, or like worn pawls slipping inside the hub?