Build thread - Brodie Sovereign '95

[PanoIgano]

So after exchanging some informative messages on Brodie decals with a kind member of this forum I went on and removed the art dept decal from the chainstay.

Before:


After:


I also got another stem, the only Syncros I could find at 90mm:


Thing is, I find the current one a tinny bit too long which translates to moving the saddle almost all the way forward. While steep seatube angles is my thing, I found the position a bit too much especially when descending on technical singletrack.

 

[PanoIgano]

Haven’t been entirely satisfied with the braking performance of XTR cantis (maybe I didn’t set them up correctly either) so decided the following change:





As you can see for these pictures the angles these Ritchey / Dia Comp cantis have is bigger. This should increase the leverage of these cantis when pressing the rim.

Also the mounting of the breaking pads are on the back side of the cantilevers not on the front like Shimano ones. This brings the braking power closer to the fork and frame studs / pivots and should result in slightly less flex.

Still a stiffener will be needed at least on the rear brake..

 

[PhillB]

Haven’t been entirely satisfied with the braking performance of XTR cantis (maybe I didn’t set them up correctly either) so decided the following change:

View attachment 884518

View attachment 884519

As you can see for these pictures the angles these Ritchey / Dia Comp cantis have is bigger. This should increase the leverage of these cantis when pressing the rim.

Also the mounting of the breaking pads are on the back side of the cantilevers not on the front like Shimano ones. This brings the braking power closer to the fork and frame studs / pivots and should result in slightly less flex.

Still a stiffener will be needed at least on the rear brake..

Will be interested to hear if you find a difference

 

[Ingmar]

So after exchanging some informative messages on Brodie decals with a kind member of this forum I went on and removed the art dept decal from the chainstay.

Before:
View attachment 881650

After:
View attachment 881651

I also got another stem, the only Syncros I could find at 90mm:
View attachment 881652

Thing is, I find the current one a tinny bit too long which translates to moving the saddle almost all the way forward. While steep seatube angles is my thing, I found the position a bit too much especially when descending on technical singletrack.

why did you remove the art dept decal? was it not time correct?

 

[PanoIgano]

why did you remove the art dept decal? was it not time correct?

It turns out that Art Tyler from Art Dept was painting Brodie frames from late 80s to about 1992.

Then it was Toxic Harald who continued painting many of the Brodie frames (especially the ones with really crazy metallic colours).

My frame is a late 94 early 95 so the decal was just confusing to have there.

In fact, I believe this decal on there seat tube is out of space / time too:



I don’t see it in the 95 catalogue and I am not sure it’s there in the 94 either. So I will probably remove this one too.

I would like to thank a very kind Canadian member of the forum for the Art Dept information! He came across my build and reached out with his knowledge!

 

[27motorhead]

Haven’t been entirely satisfied with the braking performance of XTR cantis (maybe I didn’t set them up correctly either) so decided the following change:

View attachment 884518

View attachment 884519

As you can see for these pictures the angles these Ritchey / Dia Comp cantis have is bigger. This should increase the leverage of these cantis when pressing the rim.

Also the mounting of the breaking pads are on the back side of the cantilevers not on the front like Shimano ones. This brings the braking power closer to the fork and frame studs / pivots and should result in slightly less flex.

Still a stiffener will be needed at least on the rear brake..

It looks like the XTR would have more leverage than the Ritchey Logic. Leverage would be measured in a straight line from the pivot point to where the cable is clamped/nipple is held.

You have a fixed straddle cable that makes tweaking the set-up of cantilevers limiting. If you had a traditional hanger with separate straddle cable you could drop the hanger very low to the tyre (without rubbing) to maximise leverage as you are pulling the brake arms more into the rim vs. if the the straddle cable is a lot higher as a lot of the pulling force is going upwards rather than sideways (into the rim).

If you pushed your pads inwards (you'd need to change to a separate straddle/hanger) you'd probably end up with a nicer angle to maximise leverage.

You can then also test/see how the feel of the brake changes at the lever from high position/low position on the cable hanger. High has less leverage so will feel firmer (less flex at the studs) and lower will feel sponger (more flex at the studs).

One thing to watch out for will be heel clearance on the rear brakes if they stick out too much!

Happy tinkering!