Build thread - Brodie Sovereign '95

Thanks mate, will try the 28.9mm fd once again...
Might be the thickness of the new paint? With front derailleurs you can deform the clamp band slightly by clamping it in a vice (with soft jaws) against a larger DIA round bar to open it up slightly and/or use a longer M4 clamp bolt. The reason to try and open it up more in the vice is to prevent it digging into the paint. Does the 28.9mm DIA clamp sit nicely against the seat tube section profile? If not needs a little squish until it does. Won’t be much... good luck! 💪👍👌
 
Finally, I reached the end of this build. Took me close to 9 months to gather all the parts, paint the frame and assemble but was well worth the wait.

So today I took it out for the first ride and ended up spending 4 and half hours shredding with it! 😎

It was the first time I got all the adjustments correct right out of the workshop. Apart from adjusting the pedals so they release easier and also straightening a bit the stem all the rest was there.

I had to use a steerer tube extender and this does look a bit ugly but honestly it pays loads in comfort. As long as it doesn’t break I should be fine!

Anyhow the frame is super comfortable overall and I was really positively surprised by how comfortable the Kona P2 forks are…really comparing them with the yo eddy forks they feel like suspension forks.

The frame feels very surefooted. You are placed right in the middle and is not as stiff as the yo or the American. It’s really an all day rider.

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That's from the ride last weekend in the woods outside Brussels. :cool:

I am now starting to believe that one of Brodie's biggest contributions to early MTB geometry was his longer head tubes and not just longer / steeper seat tubes.

Longer HTs just make for a more stable ride when you have steep top and head tube angles although changing quickly the direction of the bike becomes a bit more tricky on the front end.

This for me contributes overwhelmingly to how Brodies ride.

Early 90s MTBs were so influenced from road geometry that I believe with the exception of Charlie Cunninghams, Rocky Mountains (and maybe Toads?) these were the only manufacturers who pushed this type of geometry combo ahead.

I know it's not for everyone but I find it works really well once you tweak your cornering to keep the bike in line. So yes, if you have to change directions swiftly in high speeds this geometry combo will probably slow you down a bit.

Overall, I think this bike climbs more confident on non technical trail climbs from the Yo Eddy (sure, it doesn't accelerate as fast but that's another story).

I have tested both bikes in the same trail section of a singletrack that ends in a super steep and narrow climb (fits just one bike with rocks and trees on both sides of the trail path).

I never make it all the way up and neither did I do this time but I reached the furthest I could go without dismounting (it's the type of climb that if you don't unlock your pedals on time you fall back or you hit badly the rocks / trees on the side).

It gave me the confidence that I can make it all the way up next time.

Just my first impressions of how it's geometry worked for me in two rides I have done with it.

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I am now starting to believe that one of Brodie's biggest contribution to early MTB geometry was his longer head tubes
Kona's to me always had long head tubes too. Canadian and Brodie link? I always avoided, because I was a short-arse and wanted more stand-over clearance because I like to do trials as well as XC riding/racing. However a taller headtube would have helped with trials and probably XC, but that wasn't what we thought at the time!
 
True, forgot to include Konas in the list of long HT bike manufacurers. Bontrangers too had longer HTs.

Yeah it's I guess possible, that longer HTs would work with trials bikes too. Never tried trialing myself although I was tempted and a few of my team mates were quite good at it.

I think, longer HTs are also handier in descends if you want to lean backwards and leave the bike take the impact when you are going down fire roads for example.

In short, it's the geometry most sus fitted 27,5 or 29 rigs are sold today. It's just that the head tube remains short as the 120mm sus forks make for the difference.

If you notice, the handlebars in modern cross country bikes are only a few cms lower than the saddle height as opposed to the much more aggressive geometry of 90s bikes where much of the weight of the rider is on the front (hence the aching wrists).

Anyways, not sure many people are interested on geometry comparisons nowadays. Important thing is to keep enjoying riding the bike(s).
 
The roots go back to mid-late 80s with Rocky Mountain where for a short period of time, Paul, Jake, Joe's and other important players paths all crossed at the same time. It's a good rabbit hole to go down with common ideas being shared and built on, although not everyone comes out of it smelling of roses.
 
It looks fantastic, great job on the build. That first ride is always great as you 'get to know' the bike. Lovely pictures too!
 
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