Build thread - Brodie Sovereign '95

Haven’t been entirely satisfied with the braking performance of XTR cantis (maybe I didn’t set them up correctly either) so decided the following change:

F4F58765-4D44-4EB8-A3CC-7AAC8AC94A2F.jpeg

6853B6B4-E822-496E-9E30-A702E5D1AFB0.jpeg

As you can see for these pictures the angles these Ritchey / Dia Comp cantis have is bigger. This should increase the leverage of these cantis when pressing the rim.

Also the mounting of the breaking pads are on the back side of the cantilevers not on the front like Shimano ones. This brings the braking power closer to the fork and frame studs / pivots and should result in slightly less flex.

Still a stiffener will be needed at least on the rear brake..
 
Haven’t been entirely satisfied with the braking performance of XTR cantis (maybe I didn’t set them up correctly either) so decided the following change:

View attachment 884518

View attachment 884519

As you can see for these pictures the angles these Ritchey / Dia Comp cantis have is bigger. This should increase the leverage of these cantis when pressing the rim.

Also the mounting of the breaking pads are on the back side of the cantilevers not on the front like Shimano ones. This brings the braking power closer to the fork and frame studs / pivots and should result in slightly less flex.

Still a stiffener will be needed at least on the rear brake..
Will be interested to hear if you find a difference 👍
 
So after exchanging some informative messages on Brodie decals with a kind member of this forum I went on and removed the art dept decal from the chainstay.

Before:
View attachment 881650

After:
View attachment 881651

I also got another stem, the only Syncros I could find at 90mm:
View attachment 881652

Thing is, I find the current one a tinny bit too long which translates to moving the saddle almost all the way forward. While steep seatube angles is my thing, I found the position a bit too much especially when descending on technical singletrack.
why did you remove the art dept decal? was it not time correct?
 
Last edited:
why did you remove the art dept decal? was it not time correct?
It turns out that Art Tyler from Art Dept was painting Brodie frames from late 80s to about 1992.

Then it was Toxic Harald who continued painting many of the Brodie frames (especially the ones with really crazy metallic colours).

My frame is a late 94 early 95 so the decal was just confusing to have there.

In fact, I believe this decal on there seat tube is out of space / time too:

ABA98744-4822-48FB-864E-CBA491FE3237.jpeg

I don’t see it in the 95 catalogue and I am not sure it’s there in the 94 either. So I will probably remove this one too.

I would like to thank a very kind Canadian member of the forum for the Art Dept information! He came across my build and reached out with his knowledge! 🤓
 
Haven’t been entirely satisfied with the braking performance of XTR cantis (maybe I didn’t set them up correctly either) so decided the following change:

View attachment 884518

View attachment 884519

As you can see for these pictures the angles these Ritchey / Dia Comp cantis have is bigger. This should increase the leverage of these cantis when pressing the rim.

Also the mounting of the breaking pads are on the back side of the cantilevers not on the front like Shimano ones. This brings the braking power closer to the fork and frame studs / pivots and should result in slightly less flex.

Still a stiffener will be needed at least on the rear brake..
It looks like the XTR would have more leverage than the Ritchey Logic. Leverage would be measured in a straight line from the pivot point to where the cable is clamped/nipple is held.

You have a fixed straddle cable that makes tweaking the set-up of cantilevers limiting. If you had a traditional hanger with separate straddle cable you could drop the hanger very low to the tyre (without rubbing) to maximise leverage as you are pulling the brake arms more into the rim vs. if the the straddle cable is a lot higher as a lot of the pulling force is going upwards rather than sideways (into the rim).

If you pushed your pads inwards (you'd need to change to a separate straddle/hanger) you'd probably end up with a nicer angle to maximise leverage.

You can then also test/see how the feel of the brake changes at the lever from high position/low position on the cable hanger. High has less leverage so will feel firmer (less flex at the studs) and lower will feel sponger (more flex at the studs).

One thing to watch out for will be heel clearance on the rear brakes if they stick out too much!

Happy tinkering!
 
Thanks for the info! I have actually moved to traditional hangers with the ritchey cantis and it does make a difference!

4457ADD4-3F58-4712-9C71-8FB5C23C5873.jpeg
I can still go lower on the back one but it’s already noticeably better than the XTR one.

Front looks like this:
89F10FDC-A7D1-48A3-8048-B13A75E6E5F9.jpeg
Both of them need a bit more of tweaking but I am getting closer.

Funny story with these Ritchey cantis:
I was mounting these on in the workshop when my friend from the next bench comes over and tells me “hey, look what I found the other day in a flea market” and sure enough he takes out of his bag two complete pair of almost NOS Ritchey cantis 😂😂!!!

Trouble is he bought them for ONE euro together with some other parts he found from the seller he ended up paying FIVE euros. I paid 50 times as much for mine😩😳.

Anyhow that’s how it goes some times! If you look you find!
 
It turns out that Art Tyler from Art Dept was painting Brodie frames from late 80s to about 1992.

Then it was Toxic Harald who continued painting many of the Brodie frames (especially the ones with really crazy metallic colours).

My frame is a late 94 early 95 so the decal was just confusing to have there.

In fact, I believe this decal on there seat tube is out of space / time too:

View attachment 885253

I don’t see it in the 95 catalogue and I am not sure it’s there in the 94 either. So I will probably remove this one too.

I would like to thank a very kind Canadian member of the forum for the Art Dept information! He came across my build and reached out with his knowledge! 🤓

My '94 came with one.

ba.jpg
 
Thanks for the info! I have actually moved to traditional hangers with the ritchey cantis and it does make a difference!

View attachment 888263
I can still go lower on the back one but it’s already noticeably better than the XTR one.

Front looks like this:
View attachment 888265
Both of them need a bit more of tweaking but I am getting closer.

Funny story with these Ritchey cantis:
I was mounting these on in the workshop when my friend from the next bench comes over and tells me “hey, look what I found the other day in a flea market” and sure enough he takes out of his bag two complete pair of almost NOS Ritchey cantis 😂😂!!!

Trouble is he bought them for ONE euro together with some other parts he found from the seller he ended up paying FIVE euros. I paid 50 times as much for mine😩😳.

Anyhow that’s how it goes some times! If you look you find!
Looking good. Those angles look like you should get a nice direct pull. Front looks quite close to the tread on the tyre, but that might just be camera angle? Glad they feel better vs. XTR, but those fixed length straddle cable/hanger combo's really limit what you can do.

You will always find someone whose bought the same thing as you for less and in better condition, this is how it is sometimes! 🤪 But, does he have a Brodie though? Don't tell me Paul Brodie himself gifted him one for free??? 😜🤣
 
Continuing with tweaking, mixing and bastardizing the parts on this frame (I never had a bike with one groupset at any one point in my life - I always mixed parts like Tektro, XT, LX, STX, Shram and Ritchey) I did some changes to this build recently.

First, I managed to find a pair of wheels with Sun Ringle rims, DT Hugi hubs and double butted Sapin spokes. I was after a DT Hugi wheelset for a long time and so when they showed up I went for it. Having serviced / repaired plenty of Shimano, WTB, Campagnolo and other hubs (see Joytec!) for me DT Hugis stand apart. The craftmanship, design and engineering that goes into them are in my view unsurpassable. You can basically take apart these hubs with a plastic hammer using the spindle in the process as a tool to remove the bearings. The bearings and cartridges / bodies are made with so tight tolerances that no screwing is needed. All parts are pushing against each other into place. Simple Swiss engineering perfection at its best. Also, their sound is unique. Not so loud as the new DT Hugi hubs (and that’s actually a good thing) but just thin and crispy.
7542049B-628C-4B1D-8EA9-D5BD18F09BFA.jpeg

Then, with the help of very kind member of this forum who handled the shipping and custom formalities at his end, I managed to get a P2 triple butted fork. So the old double butted one with the shorter steering tube were finally replaced. This means that no ugly steering tube extender is now needed either. I am not sure, I can tell the difference in the ride quality between the two even though the triple butted ones are close to 250gs lighter than the double butted. The front end though is far more nibble and reactive as without the extender and the heavier fork is now about 400gs lighter.
99B8963F-D18A-4438-B21C-3E836A94021C.jpeg

Next, to reduce the flex in the seat stays (which was considerable it has to be said) I used a bridge / brake stiffener. It’s an IRD one and surprisingly although it reduced the flex it did not eliminate it completely as I expected. Perhaps the fact that these IRD are also made of steel is the reason why. If I had aluminum ones I think the flex would be gone. Still though the modulation I get with the Sun Ringle rims and the salmon Koolstops is the best I have had in any bike baring the Thorn.
7590EAF9-B7E6-46A9-93D9-E02EBD31EAC4.jpeg

Finally, on the front end I replaced the Ritchey cantis with Avid Arch Rival 50s. To do that I had to upgrade the levers / shifters to XT that are made for V brakes (can’t remember their code name). For some reason, I just can’t see a brake hanger on top of the Chris King headset.
18B7D371-691C-4DAD-AC6F-FD3ED2B56FA1.jpeg
All, in all, with the Contis gravel kings back and front this bike now feels more like a gravel / x country ripper which also means I reached the end of the road with changing parts on it. Now, it’s all about spending as much time as I can riding it!
2524C4B6-4F52-4BB2-AAF4-C5D8223B3E8F.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top