Best steel bikes?!!

[grantoury]

I have owned a large frame in 4130 cromo with traditional tube diameters. It was not stiff enough but hugely comfortable. Another frame, two sizes smaller, made with oversized Columbus nivacrom was stiffer and quicker but had some comfort still. This is my personal feeling considering steel; the feel of the material remains the same no matter the quality, the construction and the tube diameters and wall thicknesses make all the difference. Comparing steel with other materials I think quality, butted steel will be compliant.

 

[Jamesbike]

70 kg spinner interested in long audax rides rather than short evening rides esp further down the line.

 

[Mickeyspinn]

I've never owned anything I would class as exotic but I do have some bikes that just have that thing... that little extra... Few years back I had to straighten a bent as a banana 100 year old frame so I had to build a jig....after succeeding at straightening it I put a few of my favourites in and was utterly shocked at what I would call accuracy.
One was head and shoulders above all the others an 89 trek bonded aluminium...It's the one bike I can go no hands pretty much any speed and then stand up in pedals..with clips and give it a bunny hop...it's utterly neutral in its ride characteristics..
The other that was also surprising...main tubes plain gauge cro mo with forks and stays being gas pipe....a GT rave! Bob on accurate...that thing I can and have ridden all day and all night. Just pleasant compliant yet taught enough for four loaded panniers!
..so for me accuracy is now king over material..
Problem is when you buy a bike you can't actually check it

 

[hookooekoo]

Problem is when you buy a bike you can't actually check it

Run a string around the head tube down to each rear dropout. The distance from string to seat tube should be the same on both sides. It's a rough and ready technique, but it would tell you if the back end wasn't true. Probably good for eliciting puzzled looks from the bike sales person too. Maybe there are other similar techniques that I don't know about?

 

[Mickeyspinn]

Run a string around the head tube down to each rear dropout. The distance from string to seat tube should be the same on both sides. It's a rough and ready technique, but it would tell you if the back end wasn't true. Probably good for eliciting puzzled looks from the bike sales person too. Maybe there are other similar techniques that I don't know about?

That old chestnut
It's a guide not a measure!

 

[Fifthgrace]

Here's a cooking analogy in relation to the OP's query: the ingredients are important and so is the recipe for proportions etc. The Chef is vital as they provide the level of skill needed to get the most from the ingredients (even humble ingredients). You generally pay more for a Michelin starred meal because it reflects the greater skill and training needed to achieve the pinnacle of cooking, time after time. For those that appreciate this, they believe there's a difference and are willing to pay a premium. For those that don't. their needs may be perfectly well met by their favourite ready meal or takeaway, and that's fine too!

 

[The History Man]

Horses for courses. The best mtb I ever had was a mixture of Columbus and 853.

 

[FiveAlpha]

One point to add about strength and stiffness - they are not related. As already said, more expensive steels are stronger, but they aren't stiffer. All steel of the same gauge has (almost) the same Young's Modulus (stiffness), regardless of strength, heat treating, etc.

So, with stronger steel, you can build a lighter bike, without it breaking, but it WILL be more whippy. Hence 753 is less stiff than 531 - because it is drawn into thinner tubes.

Oversizing tubes does increase stiffness, if that is required. One factor that shouldn't be ignored, is dent-resistance. As the tubes get thinner (especially with oversized tubes), they can become very easy to dent. Not great for everyday bikes or commuters. So, the 'best' steel depends on what you are doing with the bike.