And today I did......

Jamiedyer":1q1z58pp said:
Good to hear from you Dyna :)
Hope its not too bad Tack,

Jamie
Hi-y-all :D

Seems to be a few missing :? ,did someone pop their clogs ? :LOL:

I think I'll be here a bit less due to the iPad being not so easy to use/type etc, better than nothing I suppose but toooooooo modern for me.

Are you all still waning towards road or are we back at 26" ?

I'm still looking at the ti in bits :( but the plan is to go purple with the new X2's fitted along with a new hope stem and a pair of 180/160 'floaters'. Hopefully rampage can ano me some of the bits 3dv to match.

Might even get it built before the summer ends :LOL:
 
Hope its not too bad Tack

Someone did me an attempt at a deeper clamp to cover the ti crack and although I don't think it suitable for me it could be just the thing for you :?
Pics are an unknown for the mo,so here's a 'description'
It's a standard deep clamp,possibly from a bmx ,but the front has been ground back so it curves around the top tube and sits lower.

I reckon it could cause the welds on the ti to move which you don't want,so don't want to fit it till I've had a an engine I know run the brain over it :? But on a steel or maybe alloy frame I'm sure it would be better suited.
 
Great Day:
Road ride from friends house into Durham, Coffee and sandwich stop. Then back to his parents house to wish his dad a happy birthday. Back home to clean my bike, then a red hot bath, soon to be greeted with a lamb roast dinner and rhubarb crumble. Now lazing in front of the fire.
Perfection :D .
 
Ooft! First thought was that that is an ex seat tube. But, with a proper clamp at the top of the seat tube, plus an appropriately sized Kona dog collar type contraption under the seatstay welds, that might not be as terminal as first seems. I would probably drill the end of the cut though, to reduce the risk of crack propagation.
tack4":2cp014od said:


seat post out this is the concern
 
If the frame is steel then you could get it welded up, should be cheap and quickk to do, but you'd lose the paint around that area, as it's plain red it'd be fairly easy to patch it up though to a reasonable standard.

If it's aluminium then errr..... as above drill a hole at the end of the crack and hopefully that'll stop it in its tracks.

How did you not notice that you were cutting through the seat tube as well as the seat post?!
 
Re:

Can we stop refering to it as a crack a crack is a break this is a man made cut.
The size of that seat stay bridge wouldn't allow the cut to open any further, stick a deep/thick seat coller on that seat tube and it'll be fine. BTW welding/brazing that cut would be a piece of cake.
 
Re:

It's bad Craic if nothing else Rob :LOL: .

The frame is a Cro-Mega so steel and should be good for welding without too much fear of it failing catastrophically. I'd go down the route of welding rather than some bodged collar.
 
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