And today I did......

Re:

Rob's idea of using bumpstops is what others have done, as he says with Land Rover ones.

Below is a pic of a VW front bumpstop off, I think, a MK2 Scirocco, that is not rubber but seems to be polyurethane.
The ones on my B5 Passat are similar in shape.
It is 63mm long, 50mm in diameter at widest and hole down through it is 18mm.
The internal diameter on rear bumpstops will be smaller as shock piston rod is smaller diameter.
I can compress it a bit between my hands so not too hard.
Was in my local scrappy last week and there were several just lying about after people had removed shocks/springs.

DSC00400_zps6a057be9.jpg




Rear bumpstop for Passat that I fitted to mine for MOT,
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Passat-09- ... 56575bd82d

It is about 150mm long with an internal diameter of around 12mm, it was again probably polyurethane not rubber as it was yellowish in colour and soft enough to compress a bit by hand.
You could cut it down to length you need, might even get 2 out of it with different stiffness due to slightly tapering shape.
 
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Ah yes, I see what you mean.
I have never had a coil suspension vehicle. Only have worked on leaf spring LandRover and Landcruisers, and the bump stops on those are way too hard square blocks that bolt to the chassis.

I'll scout around a few car repair places later.

Unfortunately no no car scrapers here in Jersey that would help with getting a part.

Thanks
 
Neat..thanks ..

For now I am sending the new medium bush back to the supplier and have fitted two lengths of reinforced hydraulic rubber hose..
 
Nice wee pootle tonight on the freshly fixed Colnago and falling in love with it again. Last week was a real low point when the (stupid Italian) bottom bracket unscrewed itself on the drive side pulling the left hand crank solidly into the cup. Of course this had to happen at the top of Glenesk up past Tarfside, 12 miles from the car. This meant a bit of walking, freewheeling a and borrowing a set of molegrips off workmen building a new lay-by to finally get me back to Edzell. To be fair, I'd used spacers to shift the drive cup and therefore axle across to stop the inner chainring hitting the stay. The problem only came to light when the previous owners bodge of coke can shims on the taper, disintegrated. I'd had 1mm spacers made to move the axle enough but this must not have left enough threads for it to stay tight enough with all my cranking uphill. Wouldn't have been a problem with BSA threads as the pedalling force would have acted to tighten the cup, but stupid Italian threading works the opposite way. I'd hoped to get away without buying an old Campag BB as there are so many variations and not all the people selling them know what period they fit as the axle markings aren't always present. Even before you take into account what people are asking for them it's a bit of a minefield. Luckily I discovered an online specialist in London (Pedal Peddler) who actually marked their pages properly and got the perfect fit with the necessary +1 +1.5 axle, even though in typical latin style it isn't marked as such. Been years since I've has a caged bearing adjustable BB and have forgotten what a beautiful system it is. Price was cheaper than ebay but £45 for a 30 year old 2nd (3rd/4th?) hand part was a bit annoying, but at least they included brand new bearings. Also on the plus side, the new freewheel and chain I fitted a few weeks ago have bedded in nicely and I can now get up the local climbs without my knees exploding.

MTB's have also been causing me problems with a particularly vicious stick attacking my 29er, taking out the mech hanger and chain, bending a cassette cog in the process. The following week I went to take out the Pugsley to find the 300 mile old Race Face bottom bracket seized solid. So much for being "packed at the factory with Phil Wood waterproof grease." Bought a cheap Shimano one in the mean time, but might try getting a local bearing supplier to replace the Race Face bearings with hybrid ceramic ones. They do full ceramic ones in smaller skateboard sizes, but not the larger size I'd need which is a pity as they'd be perfect for beach use.

So that's been £200 in parts in the space of three weeks. It's not that I mind spending that, just not on boring dull stuff like drivetrain parts. Here's hoping that's all my bad luck done with for this year!
 
Cup and cone bottom brackets are actually rather good, I prefer them to the cartridge system. Yes they require more maintenance but that means they're not fit and forget. The forgetting part is often where the problems start.
 
Re: Re:

RobMac":1c4tnxz8 said:
Today I sent "something" off to TFT for 'the' SPECIAL PROJECT :cool:


Between the cost of postage AND the service I was nearly greetin :(


I'd better be ridin like a God after this build or am gonna be well PISSED OFF :x


Well thats the forks just arrived from TFT for 'the' SPECIAL PROJECT :cool:
Lets hope they live up to expectation :facepalm:
 
What forks are these Rob ? Something modern and worth a pretty penny. Hurrrummmm..............let me hazard a guess at....er... DT Swiss :?
Has to be, I mean,who buys Fox these days :shock:


Today a fluffed a bearing install on a modern bulb :facepalm: Now gritty.I put them in a mk1 bulb when theyre modern bulb/pro2 bearings. Ordered through the shop who knew they were for the older one and i would have thought them exactly the same or likely even to be close enough not to matter but somethings gone amiss as theyre now as slippy as a worn bearing and have a very gritty feel to them. :( £17 ouch
 
dyna-ti":2l9lsg2y said:
What forks are these Rob ? Something modern and worth a pretty penny. Hurrrummmm..............let me hazard a guess at....er... DT Swiss :?
Has to be, I mean,who buys Fox these days :shock:

Yeah your right Dti some tatty old/modern 100mm Fox's serviced AND PUSH tuned :twisted:
 
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