Guinessisgoodforyou
rBotM Winner
The XTR stuff is so nice.
'92 Mountain Cycle San Andreas resurrection
- Thread starter foxb13
- Start date
A classic, but yes, I agree.
I didn't found any information on the subject, so as an "exercise", I've replaced the brake pads. Well, rear brake only as (i) the pads on the front still have plenty of life and (ii) I feared damaging the only important brake on a two-wheeler: the front one. Indeed, the replacement "procedure" is a destructive process, at least for the pads 
. It turns out that the latter are bonded on the piston and the fixed part of the caliper with a compound that I failed to identify. All I can say is that there were light electric blue residues here and there on the piston and the caliper and the pads totally broke up during removal. It's noteworthy that the Abruzzo ABR07 replacement pads I've obtained had to be filed a little bit to properly fit the caliper cast. They're now held in place using Loctite 638, IIRC. Great news is that the disassembly of the caliper doesn't break the sealing, so no tedious bleeding is required upon reassembly and reinstall of the caliper 
.
. It turns out that the latter are bonded on the piston and the fixed part of the caliper with a compound that I failed to identify. All I can say is that there were light electric blue residues here and there on the piston and the caliper and the pads totally broke up during removal. It's noteworthy that the Abruzzo ABR07 replacement pads I've obtained had to be filed a little bit to properly fit the caliper cast. They're now held in place using Loctite 638, IIRC. Great news is that the disassembly of the caliper doesn't break the sealing, so no tedious bleeding is required upon reassembly and reinstall of the caliper .
Last edited:
Keeping the original stacking washers, the '92 elastomers of the fork were replaced with the ones ordered earlier.
As instructed in the Suspenders System II reference guide, they were generously greased prior to install, the slider seals were oiled, as well as the inside walls of the fork tubes.
Both the left and right stanchions are now smoothly sliding the same in the lowers, allowing the fork to compress in a straight way, nearly achieving the full 2" travel. On very hard impacts though!
As instructed in the Suspenders System II reference guide, they were generously greased prior to install, the slider seals were oiled, as well as the inside walls of the fork tubes.
Both the left and right stanchions are now smoothly sliding the same in the lowers, allowing the fork to compress in a straight way, nearly achieving the full 2" travel. On very hard impacts though!
Much to my surprise, I even found the dreaded 2nd gen. Syncros Propost Ti 31.6mm x 330mm seatpost . Do you know what? Yep, the titanium flavor is heavier than the aluminum one by a couple grams.
For the curious, the difference in material thickness can be seen on the photo below (titanium left, aluminum right).
. Do you know what? Yep, the titanium flavor is heavier than the aluminum one by a couple grams.
For the curious, the difference in material thickness can be seen on the photo below (titanium left, aluminum right).
Last edited:
As you may remember, the bushings of the shock mounts were replaced earlier, silencing a disturbing noise. But the rear rotor was still not tightened enough.
Looking at the lockring, the notches let me think that a fixed-gear locking wrench, such as ParkTook HCW-17, could do the trick.
And indeed, the 41-42 hook was a perfect fit and allowed me to tighten the rear rotor to appropriate torque.
Looking at the lockring, the notches let me think that a fixed-gear locking wrench, such as ParkTook HCW-17, could do the trick.
And indeed, the 41-42 hook was a perfect fit and allowed me to tighten the rear rotor to appropriate torque.
Last edited:
