40’s Schwinn DX klunker Build?

[MattiThundrrr]

I don't want to argue with Nabby about the dropouts, for the klunking he does, it's a requirement to have the track dropouts. But I do a little less intense riding on my Duck, which has the forward drops, and its axle usually stays put. I just torque it down mercilessly
Klunker lite, I guess. I didn't do the jump, but to be honest, I probably wouldn't on a mountain bike either, it was a kid built ramp, plenty of loose boards

 

[HuskyDinoBomber]

His drop out mod looks great but unnecessary for me. This bike will not see hard trail riding. I’m very much in the cruiser group when it comes to most of my rides. Secondly I really don’t want to modify the frame that significantly as it will one day move on. I got the cranks moving but only with some blows from a rubber mallet. That is progress though. Can someone post up what tools I’ll need to remove them?

 

[MattiThundrrr]

Can someone post up what tools I’ll need to remove them?

Should be able to get them off with a big adjustable wrench for the lock nut, and a screwdriver and hammer for the cone nut. Remember that they're in the non drive side, so they're going to be reverse threaded.
Sounds like you have yet to meet St Sheldon, patron saint of old bikes

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
So much knowledge to be found on that site

 

[HuskyDinoBomber]

Should be able to get them off with a big adjustable wrench for the lock nut, and a screwdriver and hammer for the cone nut. Remember that they're in the non drive side, so they're going to be reverse threaded.
Sounds like you have yet to meet St Sheldon, patron saint of old bikes

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
So much knowledge to be found on that site

This is gold thank you.

 

[HuskyDinoBomber]

I should ask about the seat post and clamp. the diameter is 20mm and am assuming going to be hard to find.

 

[klunkrider]

I don't want to argue with Nabby about the dropouts, for the klunking he does, it's a requirement to have the track dropouts. But I do a little less intense riding on my Duck, which has the forward drops, and its axle usually stays put. I just torque it down mercilessly View attachment 744886
Klunker lite, I guess. I didn't do the jump, but to be honest, I probably wouldn't on a mountain bike either, it was a kid built ramp, plenty of loose boards

I agree about the dropouts. If your coaster is creeping, something else is wrong.

I had the original forward facing dropouts on my, much more recent, Schwinn for ages and did plenty of hard, off road riding on it without issue. I did braze a pretty solid mount to the chainstay for the torque arm, infact I did an extended arm and mounted it way up the chainstay.

Maybe anchoring the torque arm solidly is the key, I’ve done coasters in plenty other forward facing dropout frames with no problems but I tend to always do a brazed on mount.

Insta post with some images of mine,

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Since these photos I’ve changed the dropouts to a set of Paul’s and cut the original seattube out and replaced it with one that takes a 27.2mm post.

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[HuskyDinoBomber]

One seriously swollen knuckle from a hammer blow and out came the cranks yowzers that was difficult. Bearing cups did not want to budge.

 

[HuskyDinoBomber]

I have some high hope for the Boiled Lineseed Oil to get the paint to pop. The more I look at it I think it’s better than I originally thought.

 

[MattiThundrrr]

The paint on Schwinns is incredible. They used good stuff and they used a lot. You will love the results. Makes you want to just touch the frame all the time, like you're surprised it could be this good

 

[Dr Dremel]

Curious where this build will take you. Lots of stuff I don´t know nothing about but find it absolutely fascinating. One thread on here that inspired me was this one about a "catalogue" Klunker build:

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/threads/1937-schwinn-excelsior-x-nickel-plated-gary-fisher-clone.278922/