40’s Schwinn DX klunker Build?

I think you have an early 50s DX frame as you have forward facing drops. It looks like the small frame. DX was Schwinns economy bike. It will still make a good klunker. The forward facing drops are a real problem if you are going to be using a coaster brake. The rear axle will creep forward and twist, making the tire rub on the frame. This happens anyway but on a klunker you really use the coaster so it will move in those drops. There is not a good working solution for using chain tugs on forward facing drops. I usually convert forward facing drops to track style if I’m going single speed coaster klunker.View attachment 744771View attachment 744772View attachment 744773
View attachment 744774
View attachment 744775View attachment 744776Without truss rods your steering on single track will be poor. Better with truss rods, but still poor. I would go with a BMX type fork or mountain bike fork. A mountain bike fork will allow front brakes, a must if you’re going coaster single speed. A broken chain and then no brakes. Ditch the 70 year old skip tooth chain setup for a modern 1/2 inch pitch. Makes sure you use a really good headset or it will continually loosen on rough trails. I use alloy headsets with sealed bearings. Here is my 1940s coaster brake DX clunker.View attachment 744777
The master has arrived.
 
Serial number on rear drop out is hard to make out but likely 0116
I think you have an early 50s DX frame as you have forward facing drops. It looks like the small frame. DX was Schwinns economy bike. It will still make a good klunker. The forward facing drops are a real problem if you are going to be using a coaster brake. The rear axle will creep forward and twist, making the tire rub on the frame. This happens anyway but on a klunker you really use the coaster so it will move in those drops. There is not a good working solution for using chain tugs on forward facing drops. I usually convert forward facing drops to track style if I’m going single speed coaster klunker.View attachment 744771View attachment 744772View attachment 744773
View attachment 744774
View attachment 744775View attachment 744776Without truss rods your steering on single track will be poor. Better with truss rods, but still poor. I would go with a BMX type fork or mountain bike fork. A mountain bike fork will allow front brakes, a must if you’re going coaster single speed. A broken chain and then no brakes. Ditch the 70 year old skip tooth chain setup for a modern 1/2 inch pitch. Makes sure you use a really good headset or it will continually loosen on rough trails. I use alloy headsets with sealed bearings. Here is my 1940s coaster brake DX clunker.View attachment 744777
i think this is where I’m heading, love it.
 
View attachment 744591
would this 30’s Hiawatha be a good donor? I have a vision of that seat getting stripped and some new leather🤔
Cleveland Welding Company bicycle, CWC brand. If you use this seat for a klunker it will rock back and forth and squeak annoyingly. I tried this so I know. It’s ok for a cruiser but real bad for a klunker. The crank arms might be 7 inch on this bike (175 mm) so that would be cool if the DX frame has enough ground clearance. A Schwinn model C frame from around this period are preferred for klunkers because they had more ground clearance. They were more expensive so these frames are more rare and valuable. The down tube on the model C was straight, not curved like the DX Frame. D6A2494C-E6BB-40FF-9C27-D6B14F60ACEB.jpeg
 
Ooh ok I didn’t buy the Hiawatha though for $100 i felt it was a decent price but I’m not going to use most of the components then not wortht he bother.
 
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