40’s Schwinn DX klunker Build?

Be careful rebuilding that Bendix Red Band hub. If you need spare parts be aware that they aren’t all the same and parts may not be interchangeable. Machining changed over the production enough that parts won’t fit from one to another. Pain in the ass. Lately I’ve taken to buying NOS Bendix Hubs and lacing those to my rims. They pop up on eBay quite often and you don’t have a problem with parts frustration. I have a box of used red bands and gave up trying to make a good one from them. A Shimano E-110 is a better coaster brake. They’re even better than my Morrow. I was disappointed with my Morrow for klunking. They do have huge brake shoes and are good for a downhill race like repack but for a 30 mile cross country race they are tiring to use because they need more back pedaling pressure than the Shimano. The Shimano modulation is good, you can easily feather the amount of braking you need and they are easy to lock up.
 
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That front fork is a solid stamped steel unit and it wont track well on tight trails. It’s also got 96mm spacing. I sometimes replace these forks with cruiser forks. They have held up so far, though I’m still a little wary of them. I don’t jump them but I slowly ride rock gardens with them. They track much better and if you buy a new one with one inch steerer you won’t have to spread it like I’ve done here. IMG_2935.jpeg
 
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Lot of pitting on the seat clamp. 60% perfect but the other 40 not so much. Always amazed at how these old parts covered in rust can be brought back to life with a good scrub.
 
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Not sure what direction I’ll gonna but this def gonna be black and chrome. The kick stand was cut and I’m not sure how I’ll get the stump out of the holder. Maybe I can drill the retaining pin out? Any advice would be appreciated.
 
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Not sure what direction I’ll gonna but this def gonna be black and chrome. The kick stand was cut and I’m not sure how I’ll get the stump out of the holder. Maybe I can drill the retaining pin out? Any advice would be appreciated.
Those pins can be tough to get out. Use liberal amounts of penetrating oil to loosen up the rusty spring and pin. Sometimes you can’t grab the pin as all that remains is a rusted nub. Tapping with a hammer can help the penetrant work. Use the video Matti posted along with what I do. I once cut the tube and kick stand off from the frame and welded on a cross brace cut off of another frame.
 
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