199X Kona Kilauea - A Few Questions

[YogiBearington]

Hey all,

Long time lurker, first-time poster...

So I picked up a 90s Kona Kilauea and am planning on rebuilding it. While I've fixed most things on my bikes over the years except tire truing, this will be my first rebuild. Before I begin, I have a few questions that I need your help with.

Can anyone confirm that this a 1994 Kona Kilauea? I found the 94 Kona catalogue posted to RetroBike (http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/d/1 ... g+1994.pdf) and while I'm pretty sure this is a '94, the model pictured is not the same colour so I have a modicum of doubt. My sense is that almost everything matches the 94 catalogue except for the handlebars, stem, shifters, seat tube, saddle and rubber, which may have been replaced over the last 16+ years.

Does anybody know where I can find a spec sheet with measurements for each part, specifically the stem and seat tube? Alternatively, can anyone confirm that I'm looking at a 1 1/8 stem & headset and either a 27 or 27.2mm seat post? My bike building experience has not yet required the purchase of a micrometer.

Does anyone know what is up with the rear brake assembly / tire? The cable pulls up at a slight angle. Surely it should pull straight up. Also, while the tire clearance is equidistant at the chainstays, the gap at the seatstays is not. Any clues as to why? I'm thinking the tire might not be true but that doesn't jive with the fact that the gaps are the same at the chainstays.

I'm a bit of a newbie but trying to learn as much as possible. Thanks for your help, oh wise ones!

 

[Pipmeister]

Re:

Hello and welcome to Retrobike.

You have asked a lot of questions there, but here are answers to some of them.

The Kilauea is indeed a 1994 model - the link you added is to the U.S. catalogue. Here is the U.K. catalogue http://www.retrobike.co.uk/gallery2/v/M ... ogue+1994/

It does have a 1 1/8" Headset - I'm not sure what length and rise the original Velocity Stem would be. The Seatpost is 27.0mm. The rear brake cable does pull up at an angle to get around the Seat Tube, and if your rear wheel is equidistant at the Chain Stays, but seems to be over to one side at the Seat Stays, then maybe the axle is not sitting snuggly in the Dropouts.

I'm sure some one come along soon and fill in any gaps that I have left.

Oh, and well done for posting some decent pictures on your first attempt - some seasoned members on here don't seem to be able to manage that .

Pip

 

[YogiBearington]

Re:

Awesome, thanks so much for your reply. I really appreciate it!

I checked the rear wheel and it's in there snuggly so I guess it could be a tweaked frame, but I'm not too worried as it's not that bad if it is.

 

[MT62]

Hello,
as for the rear wheel, I would just flip it 180° around (so that the cassette is on the left). If the wheel still goes closer to the same side, then the frame is a bit bent, but it is possible that it will go to the other side. That would be a better (even though a bit unlikely) option, meaning the issue is in the wheel (badly measured/tightened spokes resulting in the rim being closer to one side, even though still trued).
Another nice Kona here, lovely.

 

[Daipink]

I have 2 early 90s Konas and both have this rear brake cable guide which is for cantilever brakes. I bought a 1994 AA in 1995 and it didn’t have the cable outer casing after the guide, the bare cable just ran through the guide direct to brake. Not sure the outer on yours serves any purpose really?

Interested to know if anyone has found a cable stop to fit here to allow v-brakes to be fitted?

 

[Pipmeister]

Not sure the outer on yours serves any purpose really?

Interested to know if anyone has found a cable stop to fit here to allow v-brakes to be fitted?

I think the black outer seen in the first picture is a length of plastic sleeving - I've used PTFE before now, which is harder wearing.



You can use a Kona Dog Collar to fit V-Brakes - sorry this picture doesn't show it very well.



Or here is a home made effort:
. by Philip Mock, on Flickr

. by Philip Mock, on Flickr

Pip

 

[Daipink]

Not sure the outer on yours serves any purpose really?

Interested to know if anyone has found a cable stop to fit here to allow v-brakes to be fitted?

I think the black outer seen in the first picture is a length of plastic sleeving - I've used PTFE before now, which is harder wearing.



You can use a Kona Dog Collar to fit V-Brakes - sorry this picture doesn't show it very well.



Or here is a home made effort:

Pip

That makes sense re sleeving now! I can see it now in the other pic. Cable on my AA has almost worn through the cable guide, Same benefit I guess as using it on bottom bracket cable guides

Thanks for the tips on v-brake cable stop. Is the home made one using a barrel adjuster in a frame clamp that it luckily fits in to? If so very neat idea! Re the Kona dog collar, is it just a question of finding a cable end cap that slots into the dog collar? I’ve tried this but the cable end cap I’m using is too big I realise now and sticks out at an awkward angle adding to friction.

Anyhow have enough bits in the garage to give these a go hopefully.

Nice bike by the way OP

 

[Pipmeister]

Is the home made one using a barrel adjuster in a frame clamp that it luckily fits in to? If so very neat idea! Re the Kona dog collar, is it just a question of finding a cable end cap that slots into the dog collar? I’ve tried this but the cable end cap I’m using is too big I realise now and sticks out at an awkward angle adding to friction.

Yes, just a lucky rummage through my spares - and I found a frame clamp that the barrel adjuster fitted into.
I had to carefully drill out the Dog Collar to accept a cable end cap using a pillar drill.

Pip

 

[hamster]

One other point - before concluding the rear triangle is bent, try fitting the wheel the other way round - it may well be that the dish is wrong.

 

[Henne]

Re:

Neat idea with the cable guide. If no Kona dog collar, would the plastic clamp you get with the led lights in the pound shop be a good enough substitute?