1991 Klein Pinnacle (finished on page 25)
- Thread starter Canuckbiker
- Start date
Enjoying this thread very much, as I have a few Klein builds brewing myself. I really like all the careful planning here. But I'm most curious about your plans for rattle can paint. I'm doing the same on two other builds: a Kestrel and a generic Chinese e-stay. Paint turned out nice, but I'm having a helluva time getting the 2k clear coat right. Anxiously awaiting to see your expertise at work!
Thanks @Elfman , I've done a few rattle can resprays. I think I get better with each recent attempt. Nothing beats pro paint but I'm always too cheap and do enjoy the DIY process. One big lesson I learned (proper method or not) is I can get away with base, top coat & clear all in the same session with no risk of crinkle (due to under cured previous coat) by waiting no more than 1hr between coats, usually 10-15min. Plus I get the whole thing done a lot quicker 
.
In the long run I'm not sure if this is best but working fine for me so far. I really baby my bikes so less need for ultra durable paintwork. This process does allow for very slight sanding correction but need to be very careful but no clearcoating above decals.
I've been following @arnomatic 's paintwork with his Kona (nice job BTW) and may tweak my paint process for this one. I need to find the right green (possibly RAL 6018 as suggested by @HuskyDinoBomber ) and assume this will not be found at the local hardware or autoparts store.
I've heard about this 2k clearcoat and may research this further. I typically just use Rustoleum Glossy, about 3 coats
I'm be sure to detail the paint process selected, I'm vey near to stripping the frame now
.In the long run I'm not sure if this is best but working fine for me so far. I really baby my bikes so less need for ultra durable paintwork. This process does allow for very slight sanding correction but need to be very careful but no clearcoating above decals.
I've been following @arnomatic 's paintwork with his Kona (nice job BTW) and may tweak my paint process for this one. I need to find the right green (possibly RAL 6018 as suggested by @HuskyDinoBomber ) and assume this will not be found at the local hardware or autoparts store.
I've heard about this 2k clearcoat and may research this further. I typically just use Rustoleum Glossy, about 3 coats
I'm be sure to detail the paint process selected, I'm vey near to stripping the frame now
HuskyDinoBomber
BoTM Winner
I have done several as well and agree with @Canuckbiker I apply at least one coat of clear 15-20minutes(no more than 3 hours) after my last coat of color. Light coats of clear done 5 minutes or so apart to help prevent runs. Clear can run easy if not careful so light coat, tack up, light coat so on.
Made some good progress yesterday. With this build I really want to ensure I'm not needing to mess with the frame after paint is complete.
I completed a better ridable mock-up. Borrowed the saddle/seatpost setup I intend to use from another bike, cockpit controls added for good measure, DX cranks with intended to use chainrings (hoping to source an M730 set if I can, DX will have the exact same dimensions I believe).
I may use the very old Mega Bites, wire bead/faded sidewalls and all, I figure they're safe to ride. Anyone know a treatment to make the sidewalls a bit shinier? Fallback will probably be Smoke/Dart repros
Loving the wheels except for the 3DV ano nipples. Still my ideal fork remains allusive.
MC1: like many of us I regretfully cut down the MC1 handlebar width to 535mm in the 90s. I've been riding it this way on the bike it was robbed from for a couple years now with not too much bother. Here's an idea: why not use modern lock on grips to add a bit of lenght ? I'm really liking the idea as long as they look the part. I had these Race Face units sitting around, hard plastic inner sleeve, flip them around backwards and give myself a couple cm back!
As pictured below in single speed/brakeless form I took her for a spin in the back lane last night, really like the feel
.Another positive observation: the rear hanger seems perfectly straight up and down 
. I tried a period LX 31.8 FD and believe I'll be able to shift out to the big ring with the wide BB . I did not find any opposition to the feel of the wider stance Q factor. Think it's time for paint stripper!!
BTW, the handlebar lenghtening grips idea does not give me any concern while riding, all of may hand weight is more in the centre
I completed a better ridable mock-up. Borrowed the saddle/seatpost setup I intend to use from another bike, cockpit controls added for good measure, DX cranks with intended to use chainrings (hoping to source an M730 set if I can, DX will have the exact same dimensions I believe).
I may use the very old Mega Bites, wire bead/faded sidewalls and all, I figure they're safe to ride. Anyone know a treatment to make the sidewalls a bit shinier
? Fallback will probably be Smoke/Dart reprosLoving the wheels except for the 3DV ano nipples. Still my ideal fork remains allusive.
MC1: like many of us I regretfully cut down the MC1 handlebar width to 535mm in the 90s
. I've been riding it this way on the bike it was robbed from for a couple years now with not too much bother. Here's an idea: why not use modern lock on grips to add a bit of lenght ? I'm really liking the idea as long as they look the part. I had these Race Face units sitting around, hard plastic inner sleeve, flip them around backwards and give myself a couple cm back!As pictured below in single speed/brakeless form I took her for a spin in the back lane last night, really like the feel
.Another positive observation: the rear hanger seems perfectly straight up and down . I tried a period LX 31.8 FD and believe I'll be able to shift out to the big ring with the wide BB . I did not find any opposition to the feel of the wider stance Q factor. Think it's time for paint stripper!!BTW, the handlebar lenghtening grips idea does not give me any concern while riding, all of may hand weight is more in the centre
pw_pw_la
Senior Retro Guru
Do you get to spend the night in a hotel bed wrapped around a slack geo'd mid 80s ATB frame?
That paint-chipped patina feels so cool, so right, against one's bare thighs...
pw_pw_la
Senior Retro Guru
Made some good progress yesterday. With this build I really want to ensure I'm not needing to mess with the frame after paint is complete.
I completed a better ridable mock-up. Borrowed the saddle/seatpost setup I intend to use from another bike, cockpit controls added for good measure, DX cranks with intended to use chainrings (hoping to source an M730 set if I can, DX will have the exact same dimensions I believe).
I may use the very old Mega Bites, wire bead/faded sidewalls and all, I figure they're safe to ride. Anyone know a treatment to make the sidewalls a bit shinier
Loving the wheels except for the 3DV ano nipples. Still my ideal fork remains allusive.
MC1: like many of us I regretfully cut down the MC1 handlebar width to 535mm in the 90s
As pictured below in single speed/brakeless form I took her for a spin in the back lane last night, really like the feel
BTW, the handlebar lenghtening grips idea does not give me any concern while riding, all of may hand weight is more in the centre
View attachment 664310
View attachment 664312
View attachment 664311
Instead of the lock-on's you could also try those Control Tech bar extender nubs. They give you about an extra inch or so, and just screw into the bar the same way a Nitto bar plug might. I've used them before and they certainly help.
Or better yet, send it off to someone who could extend them permanently for you. I've been doing this of late via the always excellent @danson67, and adding a few extra mm's to all those used, abused and hacked-off handlebars from the mid 90s has been a real game changer.
You got it. Ride of your life, no need to tell the wife.
