1990 Scott Boulder - restoration project & FINISH :D

skolioza

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Bicycle went to me yesterday :) Witch Your help I know what year is it

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It's in good visual & technical condition, most of parts are oryginal (unfortunetly not all....) I'll have to change saddle, grips and rear wheel (it's some cheap, modern components)

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Because my bike is early version of 1990 (I suppose this - it has Exage Mountain U-breake at rear - it should be LX series 550 cantilever there) I think about little "upgreade": In '90 Scott catalogue I found a picture of this model witch thumb - shifters :)

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What do You think - should I stay witch oryginal Deore LX rapidfire, or change it for Exage Mountain LX thumbies?
 
I love this bike, looks great :cool: , I would personally fit either DX or XT thumbies and some of the old 2 finger shimano canti levers (perfect combination) The mountain LX is cool dont get me wrong but is a litle early for the scott also The DX or XT thumbies are separate from the levers and are not resin like the Mountain LX ones ;)

Cheers
 
Thank You for suggestion
I wrote about Mountain LX, because rear breake is Exage Mountain (looks like oryginal part in this place)...
And if I choose Deore II/DX I'll have three equipment groups in one bike.....
 
The U will be original as the bosses are different for the U and Canti's, the Alloy U is Mountain LX not Mountain, Mountain was a mid grey coloured plastic over steel innards very similar in appearance and quality to Exage Trail and Country. Biopace HP was also Mountain LX, Deore II and XT II only, the lower kit was all just standard Biopace. If you want originality you want Mountain LX thumbies, which are actually Alloy bases with internal like Deore II and XT. The brake levers which the thumbies mounted to (they weren't built in but were adjustable on an allen bolt) were alloy based with Resin levers. I do have a set on my brothers old Dawes Kickback but the thumbie mounts needed to be removed as the shifters got wrecked in an accident, we couldn't get any new ones so brought Suntour XC-Pro ones. The STi kit does not belong on that bike nor does the stem, it should be an alloy swan neck IMO. and I would suggest by the Mountain LX groupset and U-Brake it is an 88 or 89.
I must chuck my dad a few quid for both the old bikes he has in the shed as there is some good working, Mountain LX, Exage Trail and Deore 1 components on them.

Carl.
 
I don't know well equipment groups before '90, and in '89 Shimano catalogue photos of those groups are not good...Breake is designed Exage mountain - I think it should has something like breake booster?
Drcarlos (or someone else) - could You write me what's this U-breake? I'll give You better photo:

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So if it's Mountain LX like drcarlos wrote in 1st message, I think I should use thumbies witch the same equipment group - even witch resin levers
But if it's Exage Mountain, I'll think about change it for Deore II, and then I'll use Deore thumbies witch 2 fingers, separatly breake levers (like suggest Gravy Monster)
 
My mate had some Mountain U's that were the grey plastic ones, that looks the same as the LX set my other mate had on his Peugeot Scorpion. Even though it doesn't say LX I still think it is, front Cantis are defo LX. The chainset is Biopace HP isn't it?
I reckon that puppy would have had the full group on it, the is too late for it. Is the Rear Mech Deore LX or Mountain LX?
If things broke Deore LX replaced Mountain LX and most parts were the same, bar the change to STi setup and SG Chainset.

Carl.
 
So:
All equipment (without U) is Deore LX - front & rear mech, STI rapidfire, front canti, front hub (rear is modern), BB, chainset witch biopace SG cranks (looks like this)

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And all of that & painting is oryginal specyfication from Scott 1990 catalogue

But this U...
I found something like this:

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Maybe it's answer... serial number is correct

In that way I think I use Deore II/DX thumbies I don't have breake levers for him right now, so in the beggining I'll have to use something to replace it
 
I start renovation
Bicycle was spread and clean

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Frame will stay oryginal - it is in good condition & I don't want respray it yet

Seatpost, bar and stem unfortunetly has decreases in oryginal painting
Here You have stem photo after grind and before painting

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