1990 Mammoth RC201

Re: An early, elevated, Christmas present.

Not sure how I missed this. It's going to be a cracker...

Live the chrome one too. Sweet :cool:

Looking forward to see how it progresses.
 
Re: An early, elevated, Christmas present.

Team Rider Using Manitou.
 

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Some indirect progress this week;



I finally got the BB out of my CR-7 frame, and this is what I found. A sleeve on the BB spindle, with a groove cut in one end, and a clip helping to hold the sleeve in place, and to locate the bearing on the spindle.

With this, I can now understand in my mind at least, how this would be reinstalled with new bearings. Also, I saw RockiMtn's Mantis thread today - http://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewto ... p;start=50 - and that helped too.

Getting new bearings is not a problem, but the only new spindles I can find are by Phil Wood. Costing just less than what I paid for the frame! However, they don't have a groove in one end, so the spindle is effectively free-floating, and getting the right spacing side-to-side will be tricky.

I don't think I can use this spindle in the Mammoth because its BB shell is 78mm, while the Fisher's is 90mm, so the bearings in the Mammoth won't be able to come inboard enough to be inside of the c-clips.

So, two questions then;

1. Does anyone else make a BB spindle for this application?

2. How do I properly locate a Phil Wood spindle, and get it to stay where I put it?
 

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My Ti BB axle that came in my Pro-Floater doesn't have a grove/clip to hold the sleeve in place. Not sure what's keeping it there in fact. Perhaps press fit and bonded?

Maybe you can use a BB axle from something that has cartridge bearings, like Race Face or Syncros? And need be, fine tune with some washers as spacers?
 
RockiMtn":1hn79oj5 said:
My Ti BB axle that came in my Pro-Floater doesn't have a grove/clip to hold the sleeve in place. Not sure what's keeping it there in fact. Perhaps press fit and bonded?

Maybe you can use a BB axle from something that has cartridge bearings, like Race Face or Syncros? And need be, fine tune with some washers as spacers?

That occurred to me last night actually. I know what the OD of the bearings is, so any spindle I can find with the correct width, I can probably find a bearing with the right ID to match the spindle.

Like this for instance;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Primo-Crank-Tit ... 1c3aa71009
 
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what you've linked to doesn't seem to have a raised middle section as a stop for the cartridge bearings on either side, so you'd have to shim it.

for instance, something like this could get you to where you need:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Action-Tec-titan ... 1153313634

$_12.JPG
 
That would definitely be a winner - if the space between those two ridges matches the space between the bearings on the Mammoth.

I noticed that the spindle I pulled from the Fisher would fit, but the bearings would sit flush with the BB shell. Probably not the best way to go.

If I bought a Phil Wood spindle - and really, it wouldn't be terrible if I had to buy something of that high quality, it would just be expensive - would loctite be enough to keep the bearings in place on the spindle?
 
i'm assuming your frame is about the same set up as my Mantis. if so what i think you need to do is measure the distance between the two groves for the circlip. then you know what distance you need to span with the width of of two cartridge bearing in combination with the span of axle in between.

from there you source the axle length you need for the appropriate crank arms you plan to use, and see if there are cartridge bearings with width profile to make up the rest of the distance of the measurement you made above. or if there are only a limited number of cartridge bearing diameters with different width profiles that fit your BB shell, you can also work that way to source BB spindles.

so the bearings from your Fisher fits the Mammoth? What's the diameter and width profile on them?
 
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