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This should be more that enough info. Honestly all you should need is a 24mm flat ground socket to remove the top cap (after removing the ecc lever) once you're in there remove the top cap from the rod like they do in the video. You'll probably have to remove the top cap from the rod. One the...

Does it have the correct amount of oil? If the oil is to low it will not function. https://marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.com/p/oil-quantitys-and-levels_858.html Looks like 150cc of oil in that side of the leg. Pobably best to drain the oil out of the top of the fork, cycle the ECC until it's...

You are correct, those are definitely elastomers in there. I would guess any would really work, I know there are a few companies who sell aftermarket elastomers. Some members here may also have some old but good ones sitting around. Probably none specifically for this fork, but I'm betting just...

Z3 should be steel springs. Pic of the fork?

I didn't see any Marzocchi's. Let me help you.

A little update, finally got sick and tired of the 22" bars and gripshift. After trying to source period correct 26" wide flat bars and coming up empty handed (non existent) I tested out some wider 26" chi ti bars & XT rapid fire shifters. Exactly what I wanted, much more comfortable and shifts...

2 rare ones for sure. Don't see the NTH very often and the other raw and that size? New to me and rad. Looks like they are probably 97+ as the canti hanger has been deleted.

Find the serial https://ritchey.vintagebicycledatabase.com/listing.php

Ha! Great find. I've been using a split black PVC tube for the 30mm & 32mm, had a rockshox tool for 35&36 and used a shop vac plastic extension for some 38&40's. Pedros dh tire lever is my favorite remover.

Final pic dump, bike is done!

Nice! That's the one. I eventually found a wounded 82 stumpy with some parts that matched the 82 Ritchey build, which I swapped in to clear out the OG 1983 Shimano and others bits. I'll have to update that old thread to show the whole journey.

Freeze the headset for 30-60 minutes prior to install and there's a great chance it'll go in straight every time. Same rule applies to bearings.

Lol, yeah I can see how you got to that point. I want far off and decided to put things in a bag and hope for directions. I've got a friend who can machine new stoppers but that seems like a lot of effort just to get a ti BB back in action. Thinking maybe drilling a few holes in the sides of...

On the outside you have 2 crank stoppers (short AL pieces) the next is the double row bearings. Then the black center piece. In theory it's all removable. The crank stoppers won't budge. I've regreased the bearings and one is getting crunchy, hence the reason for the attempted rebuild...

I've read everything I can find. "EASY" is what I understood, not what I'm experiencing. Any idea how to remove the bearings and outboard spacers off without destroying things?

That I'm not sure, if I remember correctly there as 2 or 3 thread pitches for brake boss bolts. I'd guess from the look its the finer option in M8. But I don't have anything to test with. A Quick google search is only coming up with M8x1.25 pitch brake boss bolts. You can always go to a hardware...

Seat post size: Mine had a reducer. I hate reducers. With the reducer out it (mine) is 30mm

I'm running a set of 2nd gen's, also have a set of topline cranks on my other bike... pavement only so I'm not concerned (that much) :) But I wouldn't run them hard or over tighten the bolts.

Looking for a decent mid/high end 24-26" wide 25.4 flat bars for my yeti... The 22.5 bars are just too damn narrow. If you know of any, let me know manufacturers and models of possible. Would like to keep it mid 90's vintage if possible