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Over at MTBR we run into this using a larger cassette. Clearance sucks and there isn’t enough b screw to push the derailleur back. A lot of times a Goatlink is the answer. It extends the derailleur down and back. While not listed for your application, its worth a look.

Clean those threads and work it back and forth. By the looks of things, it may have been seeping oil a while through that seal. Maybe I am wrong. Is the damper still damping, or is the back end bouncing all over?

Clubby is correct. Collar spins up/down to preload spring, spin it back, spring loosens. When this happens, be prepared, bike gets slack. Remove bolts either side of damper, voila, removed from bike. ( I like to use a piece of pvc pipe, drill holes holes in appx spots, and install in place of...

Some disassembly and inspection might go a long way toward finding your clunk. I see some wear on the brake line there, to much suspension movement, allowing contact. Either you are hucking that rig, or you need to up your spring. Looks oily too, so maybe you’ve got the leaky damper, and...

I don’t think that an old set of Judy’s is a bad thing, I’ve built a few from eBay with good results. Any you pick up are likely to need a good rebuild. Clean,elastomers, seals, service damper, maybe paint - all part of the game and all very doable. I’d pass on this set. That paint off the arch...

I tried to resto a Marlin of the era, but liked how it rode so much, it turned into an updated version.

Re: I don't know of a cupping 'discard spec', but I had a set of those for the longest time, cupped, and they were much worse before the rim surface started cracking. Do you plan on long days of shredding the GnaR on lift serviced terrain, or hitting paths from time to time? If the latter...

Re: The cable and housing are standard gear change material. I hated the Specialized remote, so when I went 1x, I modified the front shifter to do the job.

Re: I'd ride that. I like that the dent is on the side rather than totally on the 'up' side. I am no engineer, but my understanding is that most of the load is actually at the chainstays, rather than seatstays. Some of my road bikes have pencil thin seatstays, and more often than not when the...

Re: Good Work! While a PITA on one hand, it's a satisfying challenge when it all comes together on the retro bikes. Ride On!

Re: Copper grease is copper paste in the states. - readily available. That metal piece - is it possible to determine id and the od and source metal tubing locall/amazon, and cut to length?

Re: I may get flamed here in Retro. You've been out of the MTB loop to long. 1x is pretty much a standard MTB thing these days. In terms of range, you get 'most' of the range a 3x7,8,9 or whatever. By most, you don't get the 44x12 or so, nor the depth of the 22x32, but you get enough to work...

Re: Besides the adjust, the only acheivable variable is the weight of the oil. Bump up to 10 or 15wt. *I say acheivable, because in theory you could maybe change out the springs lighter ones for some effect - if they were available, and that would likely result in a lot of brake dive.

Re: I work in the auto industry, and sometimes with dents we can use a company that specializes in 'Paintless Dent Repair'. The process is non-invasive, so no holes, scuffs, etc. From what I understand, creases are never going to be perfect, while nice rounded dents are the best to work with...

Re: Yep, that mess is normal. This site has a '96 Judy service guide. Page 7 lists the different travels and dampers. Length of the stack?, that's a toughy. I agree, put it together, compress and measure, extend, measure, and subtract. BUT, if you are making your own, id start a little long...

Re: Yeah, there are manuals in the archive section or google it. The 1996 Judy XC manual appears to be what you need. The 'blockage' is the upper shaft guide, #20. The guide supports the neutral rod horizontally and is a plastic disc with an oring on the inside to support the rod, and and...

Re: Not textbook, but can'hurt.

Re: Sounds good so far, I thought you were going all out wrench. I say non-chamfer socket, as many have a bevel from the very edge to the flats, so if the edge is 2mm tall, and you have 1mm of chamfer on the socket, you can see how that sucks. You can 'make' a socket non-chamfer by grinding...

Re: My first thought is stop! Don't use a wrench, use a socket, a good six point, non-chamfer socket. This gives you 6 points of contact versus 2 with a wrench. Soak it with liquid wrench, PB blaster or one of those for an hour or so before trying that. I am sure others will chime in, but a...

Re: Glad it worked out. I was going to say that part of that sticking of the bike is the ratchets working over the ramps, and I recall even new, they feel a bit sticky. On the bike is different as the leverage exerted by the wheel is far more than you can exert by hand. I've reworked similar...